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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Sept 1, 2012 16:53:35 GMT -5
Lakewood "truck" bellhousing 15335 bought now. Don't need that anymore.
Transmission found, thanks Arthur
Shifter found from ebay
Bought cheapest possible flywheel & clutch I could find new as this is a testing version, need to get stronger stuff when I buy some power to the engine.
Now it's just waiting til the parts arrive & more waiting for the overseas container transport.
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Post by sigmfsk on Sept 1, 2012 19:08:41 GMT -5
Hi SD: If you're looking for a long-shaft w/ overdrive, it looks like you're limited to: > 1975 – 1987 Truck Overdrive 3.09:1 1.67:1 1:1 0.71:1 > These transmissions had a long tailshaft with dual shifter mounts > and used the large 5.125″ input bearing retainer size. > > Long tailshaft transmissions are 27″ inches from where they > mount to the bellhousing to the end of the transmission and are > found in the mid size and larger B-body, E-body and C-body cars > as well as light trucks and vans into the 80′s. www.hotrodreference.com/102/mopar-a833-manual-transmission-gear-ratios/> Theres an interesting article/feature in the June 2006 issue of > Mopar Muscle. They're featuring a 1970 Plymouth Superbird clone > that is running an A-833 Overdrive trans from an early '80's > Dodge truck behind a dual carbed 440 engine. www.cbodydrydock.com/forum_viewtopic.php?5.127059I have that article. It doesn't say anything more about the trans setup. Look, here's one for $150: > Dodge Truck A833 overdrive 4speed - $150 (Prescott) > Dodge truck A833 overdrive 4 speed trans, long tailshaft, $150 phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/pts/3167612335.htmlRather than try to have him ship internationally, I can understand that it would be helpful to have someone here collect the items for you and then ship at once. Possible options: I'd be happy to help you buy the trans and have it shipped to my address, and then ship to you. or Board member AZBlues is in Arizona. Maybe he could pick it up, and his place could be used as the central point to collect your items. My old Marin County block has 440 forged crank. It might cost more to have the motor disassembled to get to it than it would cost to get another one. For torsion bars, eventually my Marin County bars will be available, but you might wish to just get a new set from www.firmfeel.com. Well, those are some ideas. I don't know anything about the A833 transmission, but it sure sounds neat putting one in a Monaco! your friend in thinking outside the box, arthur
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Post by sigmfsk on Sept 1, 2012 19:16:25 GMT -5
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Sept 2, 2012 10:39:43 GMT -5
Me neither! But I've learned from the interwebs that with 833 I could use original crossmember and driveshaft, which makes it the simplest and cheapest solution. 727's length is 35" and 833 is 27" + bellhousing so this doesn't sound impossible. How much are those inland shipments in the us? Seems kind of funny that my parts would travel from south to north and back, but if the costs are reasonable and you want to help me, why not. I used allofcraigs search, or adhuntr nowadays.
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Sept 2, 2012 10:45:41 GMT -5
Also started to think that I'd also need a new cam + lifters and timing chain systems and and and. There are too many kind of cam kits in the web, very confusing. I don't understand almost anything about lifts or durations, but rpm range should be from 0 or from 1000? because of the od trans and that I'm planning going with stock heads and pumps( budget issues again) and want an engine that has nice torque all the way.
And pistons and gaskets too. Ouch.
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Sept 2, 2012 14:25:53 GMT -5
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Post by sigmfsk on Sept 2, 2012 18:33:58 GMT -5
That craigslist ad looked pretty good; it's too bad they already sold the shifter. What's your plan for the clutch pedal? Swap an entirely different clutch/brake/accelerator assembly into the monaco, or modify the existing assembly? Use a clutch z-bar, or hydraulic clutch? For the motor, ship all the parts separately and you put together, or ship a completed motor?
Whatever you do, I would guess that it would be cheapest to send everything together in one shipment, but I really don't know. If it helps me to store things in my garage until you get everything read for one big overseas shipment, I'm happy to help, but I don't have a loading dock, or forklift, or even a truck, so I'm limited in what I can lift. I do have an engine hoist.
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Sept 3, 2012 3:05:27 GMT -5
I'm quite sure that I have to do the clutch linkage system myself(separate pedal assembled somewhere from an unknown donor car and leave the wide brake pedal there), unless an older c-body has correct sized stuff and I find that kind of used kit. Hydraulic would be nice, someday.
I'm thinking just engine parts for now.
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Sept 4, 2012 18:14:23 GMT -5
Just learned from an Michigan based importer guy that a complete engine wouldn't make much difference to the freight. Have to think about an engine option too, because machinery work isn't free and I can always stroke the 400 later.
And I really appreciate your offer to help, sigmsfk!
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Sept 14, 2012 2:16:45 GMT -5
I’ve been googlin’ this manual swap thing and seems like that 833 with od to a big block could be a bolt on job IF I find # 4039670 original big block bellhousing to fit 383-440 1972-78 Dodge trucks with NP435 or A833 transmissions (dual pattern), 5.125" bearing retainer diameter(same as a833od), use with 143 tooth flywheel. www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=278 or aftermarket bell which fits. Third option is to get a “normal” bb-bell and let the machinery shop drill the hole. Other issue is the flywheel. Internets told me that big block with a cast crank is externally balanced, so I would have to get balanced flywheel for the swap(most likely, I don’t know what the 400 has inside). Or balance it myself(that can’t end good). That wouldn’t be necessary if I get the steel crank/or an engine with a steel crank- I haven’t decided what I’m going to do. Clutch linkage is still a mystery.
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Post by sigmfsk on Oct 1, 2012 18:37:22 GMT -5
Clutch linkage is still a mystery. I double triple quadruple recommend a hydraulic throwout bearing. Like this: McLeod RACING 14005-10 - McLeod Throwout Bearings Throwout Bearing, Hydraulic, Mopar, A833 Transmission, Kit www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-14005-10/?rtype=10The hardest part of the conversion then becomes the easiest. Degree of difficulty is a factor in Monaco coolness, but I think the coolness multiplier for "manual transmission" is x100, while the multiplier for "sticking with a z-bar instead of using a hydraulic clutch" is only x2. your friend in maximum benefit for difficulty, arthur
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Oct 2, 2012 1:59:32 GMT -5
^Ok, ok, I'll do the hydraulic then. I've been googlin' that too lately and found out that MB Sprinter's throwout bearing/master cylinder systems are almost a bolt-on job to 833(needs only some sort of spacer, if I understood it correct).
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Post by sigmfsk on Oct 3, 2012 16:28:00 GMT -5
^Ok, ok, I'll do the hydraulic then. I've been googlin' that too lately and found out that MB Sprinter's throwout bearing/master cylinder systems are almost a bolt-on job to 833(needs only some sort of spacer, if I understood it correct). Glad I'm swinging you the hydraulic way. Do you have a link on the info regarding the Sprinter? I found this page www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46002&sid=3424bebc80a3de0eb6af69d02c877750on hydraulic clutch recommendations for an 833 transmission that says: ----------- I like internal setup better, more clearance for exhaust. This is from Mercedes Sprinter iirc. kuvablogi.com/nayta/2874209/----------- But I think it is just referring to the general concept of a hydraulic throwout bearing (instead of a hydraulic slave cylinder). That kuvablogi page is down, so it's hard to say what might be on that page. I remember you saying that you'd might prefer a slave cylinder setup, like this: from www.britishv8.org/articles/clutch-slave-ford-v8.htmThat might a good way to go, too. You'd be sticking with a tried-and-true mopar manual clutch system - and just replacing the actuation of the clutch fork. It would take up slightly more room than a hydraulic throwout bearing, but I'm guessing it would still clear the torsion bar. You could use almost any slave cylinder and make a mounting bracket, it wouldn't need to be 833 specific. your friend in jawboning about fun ideas, arthur
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Oct 4, 2012 3:41:32 GMT -5
I remember you saying that you'd might prefer a slave cylinder setup, like this: Quite erotic. I haven't got a good link, the overdrive.fi is written in finnish and there's no pictures. They mention part numbers there and that the Sprinter's bearing/w hoses went nicely in, only had to make some room for the hoses and that spacer. I haven't made decisions yet, but that exhaust clearance is a valid point- so maybe I'll try that Sprinter first. Just need to find a bellhousing first, I'm still hoping to get a reasonable priced bb bell that fits the od trans.
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Oct 4, 2012 15:41:07 GMT -5
Did this nice picture about bellhousing differences.
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