Ghostbluesman's BluMo
Mar 19, 2013 11:36:55 GMT -5
Post by Ghostbluesman (Ghostsoldier) on Mar 19, 2013 11:36:55 GMT -5
Lookin good!
Thanks, spanks! ;D
What do you know about those exhaust manifolds? I am in search of a proper set of 440 manifolds that won't cost me an arm and a leg. Are the casting numbers still visible on them? I have 2 sets of 400 manifolds but they are not the same as the 440 manifolds.
If my memory serves me correctly, those are out of a 1972 Charger; yes, they do have the casting numbers still on them...I'll post them up tonight, when I get home from work. I know what you mean about finding stock manifolds that are reasonably priced....I haven't found a set I want to pay high-dollar for, either.
As for the broken studs, I have become a broken bolt / stud expert. Do you have access to a mig welder? I have become fairly skilled with a mig welder over the years and have a nice 220 machine that is easy to use. I have had 100% success rate with the following method, it doesn't take a lot of welding skill but you need a fairly powerfully machine to zap a nice weld quickly, you can't use a machine that does a bunch of popping and cracking before it gets warmed up enough to lay down a good bead.
Clean up the broken stud / hole area. Take a flat washer that has the inside diameter that is the same or slightly smaller than the bolt to be extracted. Carefully weld the washer to the stud, the good news here is that cast iron and aluminum (cylinder heads) don't easily weld with a mig welder, so it is fairly easy to weld to the broken stud even if it is recessed below the surface a bit. Once the washer is welded to the stud, take a short 5/16 or 3/8 bolt and weld it to the washer. Finally use a 1/2" or 9/16" wrench and loosen it up. Sometimes you need to spray some penetrating oil and work the welded bolt assembly back and forth a bit to free it up but eventually it comes out. If the bolt breaks off, weld on another and go again. I have found this process does two things. 1. Obviously it gives you something to "grab" on the the broken stud with and 2. If you work quickly enough the welding process puts a significant amount of heat directly into the offending broken bolt which aids in freeing it up.
I use this over drilling because in my experience, drilling almost always ends in a goofed up hole. Unless you have really nice bits, cutting oil, and the ability to center punch the broken bolt the drill bit will always "walk" and run down the side of the bolt screwing up the hole.
Clean up the broken stud / hole area. Take a flat washer that has the inside diameter that is the same or slightly smaller than the bolt to be extracted. Carefully weld the washer to the stud, the good news here is that cast iron and aluminum (cylinder heads) don't easily weld with a mig welder, so it is fairly easy to weld to the broken stud even if it is recessed below the surface a bit. Once the washer is welded to the stud, take a short 5/16 or 3/8 bolt and weld it to the washer. Finally use a 1/2" or 9/16" wrench and loosen it up. Sometimes you need to spray some penetrating oil and work the welded bolt assembly back and forth a bit to free it up but eventually it comes out. If the bolt breaks off, weld on another and go again. I have found this process does two things. 1. Obviously it gives you something to "grab" on the the broken stud with and 2. If you work quickly enough the welding process puts a significant amount of heat directly into the offending broken bolt which aids in freeing it up.
I use this over drilling because in my experience, drilling almost always ends in a goofed up hole. Unless you have really nice bits, cutting oil, and the ability to center punch the broken bolt the drill bit will always "walk" and run down the side of the bolt screwing up the hole.
Bro, this info is awesome! I have an arc welder, and a Century wire-feed welder, but no MIG...do you think I can do it with the wire-feed?
Rob