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Post by spanks79 on Nov 5, 2012 20:20:46 GMT -5
I think this is good news. It is just kind of sad it is taking so long on those parts. The car is still in primer, so I was careful to not put any finger oil on the paint. But I don't know what's required here. Do I need to worry about this, or just take it easy and expect that they'll need to reprep and take care of all that after it comes back from the suspension shop? You don't have much to worry about. With the length of time that is going to pass between the initial priming and when they are actually ready to paint and the amount of miles and hands that will be on it, the body shop will certainly sand, reprime and seal it before paint. Obviously it is best to keep it clean, but I would not stress over it.
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Post by sigmfsk on Dec 1, 2012 5:14:03 GMT -5
Oh come on arthur!!! Marin comes home, and those are the only pics you can throw up? What the hell!?!?! hahahahaha come on man!! Lets see that beauty! It sure would seem that I have something good to show, but it's the same as it was at the panel-beaters, just now at home. I took these pics: showing stuff added for clearance checks when the motor is fitted. I'm not too keen on the "Hydroboost" logo machined into the aluminum bulkhead spacer. I'm thinking of changing that to a solid piece of aluminum and maybe machine in "Marin County" and a bluesbrothers logo. Still waiting for an oil-pan and intake. I last heard from Steve L that it would be done over thanksgiving break... Maybe he's spending all his time playing "blumo parts collector". I had the panel beaters reinstall the front bumper, so that I.C. would have everything needed when redoing the front suspension and frame. When the car was coming back home, I noticed the front bumper was bent. and I was thinking - what kind of outfit bends up a bumper like that? And I checked my old pics and see that it was bent when I delivered it to them: Funny how it stands out now, being that the rest of the car looks so nice. your friend in big updates, and mini-updates, arthur
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Post by JennyBlues on Dec 1, 2012 5:27:32 GMT -5
Its looking good Arthur, What a beauty! The body looks great! I like your idea about machine "Marin county and the blues logo!" go for it! much better than hydroboost..blah! Very interesting the change in how noticable the bent bumper is now! lol you can hardly notice it before! Keep up the great work! Oh come on arthur!!! Marin comes home, and those are the only pics you can throw up? What the hell!?!?! hahahahaha come on man!! Lets see that beauty! Right!? The car is still in primer, so I was careful to not put any finger oil on the paint. But I don't know what's required here. Do I need to worry about this, or just take it easy and expect that they'll need to reprep and take care of all that after it comes back from the suspension shop? You don't have much to worry about. With the length of time that is going to pass between the initial priming and when they are actually ready to paint and the amount of miles and hands that will be on it, the body shop will certainly sand, reprime and seal it before paint. Obviously it is best to keep it clean, but I would not stress over it. You can hug and kiss your car goodnight as much as you like Arthur don't worry about it, we understand!
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Post by sigmfsk on Dec 1, 2012 6:02:14 GMT -5
[regarding touching the primer between now and when it is painted]: You can hug and kiss your car goodnight as much as you like Arthur don't worry about it, we understand! ROFL, you got me!
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Post by bluzman on Dec 4, 2012 10:39:27 GMT -5
Post your findings (if any) on the F58 frame reinforcements.....I remember looking over the U code 76 Police Royal that I cut up and could not find anything that stood out exceptionally.
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Post by sigmfsk on Dec 4, 2012 16:18:44 GMT -5
Post your findings (if any) on the F58 frame reinforcements.....I remember looking over the U code 76 Police Royal that I cut up and could not find anything that stood out exceptionally. The analysis is still pending. The differences may only be noticeable on the inside of the frame rails and/or easier to see with the trunk floor removed. The plan is for me to use my 74 MHP Fury for an F58 baseline, and Spanks to use his old civilian car for a non-F8 analysis. Eventually, we'll cut them up and compare.
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Post by bluzman on Dec 4, 2012 18:05:17 GMT -5
Your car is looking good.....You have a hell of a lot more patience that I have...should be a nice piece though when you get it all together. Are you doing the final assembly of the car yourself or are you farming it out too?
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Post by sigmfsk on Dec 4, 2012 19:58:16 GMT -5
Are you doing the final assembly of the car yourself or are you farming it out too? It depends on what you mean by "final assembly". The general plan is: - get oil pan & intake - give those to motor guys, have them build motor & dyno with carb I'm thinking of having the motor guys tune the engine for its best performance on E85, using all its available octane and timing, with them using their carb and distributor and not worrying about the FAST XFI. - send me and the motor to Brian Macy and setup the FAST XFI for use with the motor (both the physical connections to the motor, and programming the computer tune) horsepowerconnection.com/- send the motor and car to I.C, and setup with Dodge Dakota front suspension, 9 1/4 rear axle with Dakota ABS setup. Rear axle will likely located via a means other than leaf springs. If that's not I.C.s bag, then find someone who's bag it is. - with the rear suspension figured out, determine what CV joint to use to allow the seriously dropped motor height. The main contender seemed to be rockforddriveline bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=owners&thread=45&post=3949but it looks like GKN has recently been making strides in the aftermarket with their cool countertrack technology: www.gkn.com/landsystems/brands/gkn-pss/about-us/news/Pages/New-generation-of-GKN-developed-countertrack-CV-joints.aspx- get the car back with motor installed. Take back to panel beaters to have them paint the main black & white, and install glass. - get the seats upholstered - take it to my garage and I'll install the interior, stencil paint the outside, and wire up the car from scratch. I haven't figured out who will airbrush the "Monaco" emblems on the fenders. I'm trying to get some better pics of the movie car. The plan is moving like molasses, but I'm being productive using all the spare time on blumo related research, so overall I'm having a great time. /arthur
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Post by JennyBlues on Dec 5, 2012 4:35:05 GMT -5
Wow... that was a mouth full! But there you have it in an Arthur nutshell! It sounds like a great plan to me!
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Post by sigmfsk on Dec 5, 2012 16:15:07 GMT -5
Thanks, Jenny. This recent burst of activity got me itching to write something, and since nothing's happening, I thought it a good time to go through the car magazines piling up in front, and scan a few things I thought worth remembering. from Dec 2012 Hot Rod. Got it, 1350 joints, without grease fittings. from Jan 2013 Rod & Custom From what I can see, these joints look like quite the ticket. But I must be missing something, as they don't seem to be as popular as I would expect. Jan 2013 had an interesting article about a build on a 1970 Camaro. Pics here: www.detroitspeed.com/projects/alderman-70/alderman-70-pg1.html
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Post by bluzman on Dec 5, 2012 18:12:19 GMT -5
In reference to your cop car front seat pics.....Damn...I wish I would have paid closer attention to the front seat that was in the 76 Police spec Monaco I had......anyways I removed the front and rear seats from that car and had them re-upholstered and they are now in the 77 Blusmo that I sold to 59 Strat from BBC.......not sure if he is still around but anyways ...59 Strat if you are reading this.....your ass is officially riding around on "Cop spec" seats...that will make your 77 Blusmo just a lil bit cooler!!! ;D
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Post by sigmfsk on Dec 10, 2012 6:09:08 GMT -5
Jenny and I were talking about Marin County & Mendicino County cars. Here: bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=police&thread=1148&post=7678I put some pics of the "Marin" hand written paint script on the b-pillar, and that I > remembered that I have a copy of the original California "pink slip" > showing that it was owned by Marin County. Here: bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=owners&thread=882&post=7691Jenny asks if my MC came with single/dual spotlights. We had a pretty good thread going about spotlights over on BBC. www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/topic/7531-spotlight-questions-and-answers/page-7Here are some pics from that thread showing that my Marin County came with factory dual spotlights: Even though I didn't receive it with the actual spotlight heads, the hardware included was quite awesome, as it helped show the factory interior 215 brackets, and shows the orientation of the sleeves (which verifies the orientation that the handle would have), and shows the length of the spotlight, and shows the fore/aft location of the sleeve inside the a-pillar. And here are some pics from my MC thread on BBC showing the patrol log wadded up under the seat, and the board mounted in the trunk area by the jack (presumably used to mount the radio)
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Post by sigmfsk on Jan 5, 2013 18:21:37 GMT -5
I was considering how I would display the engine data from the FAST XFI, and started thinking about using a heads-up-display (HUD). I stumbled across this review of one: I like the way that guy put together his video; nice audio and video combination. The device has a reverse-image display: so the display looks correct after it is bounced off the windshield: Notice the double-image - due to it being reflected off both the inside and outside edge of the laminated windshield. This ghosting effect was reduced by using some reflective plastic on the windshield, but that solution wasn't entirely satisfactory. Regardless; I can't use that solution as it connects to the car's OBD II jack to get the engine data. Fast XFI cannot output OBD II signals. > You cannot get OBD readings from any of the FAST ecus. > ... > None of the FAST ecus will work with an oem type scanner. www.cpgnation.com/forum/ez-efi-multiport-retrofit-questions-4403.htmlIf one just wanted speed, here's a display based on GPS: www.engadget.com/2007/02/20/globaltop-intros-gps-hud-speed-meter/but that was 2007. In 2013, one can just use a smart-phone app that displays a reverse-image and set it on the dash: Notice that double-image again. The best reduction I saw was when a guy used a section of window tint with his home-made HUD: www.3geez.com/forum/appearance/77810-home-made-hud-system-4.htmlI could just get the standard FAST XFI display and bounce it off the windshield via a mirror, something like this HUD setup: www.engadget.com/2010/06/10/springteq-introduces-wego-hud-gps/But I think the "reflect off the windshield" isn't a good plan. The double-image is problematic, and even if I could get rid of that, I don't have a place to hide the display. I don't want the interior to be obviously unblusmobile-like. Here's an interesting setup that displays a HUD display on folddown clear plastic from the sun-visor. The laser is mounted farther back, displaying the HUD on the plastic. www.theverge.com/2012/5/9/3010623/pioneers-laser-projected-car-hud-lets-you-drive-like-robocopBut even though that might not be too obtrusive, that unit only displays GPS data; it would require some serious customization to add all the readings from FAST XFI. The best solution seems to be the simplest solution. Hide the standard FAST XFI display behind a fold down panel located in the position of the stock civilian radio. Note the 4 white-dots that make a rectangular outline in this area: I can use the bottom two dots to mount the hinge. And the top two dots to be a "handle" to pull the black cover down, revealing the FAST XFI display behind. your friend in new year planning, arthur
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Post by sigmfsk on Jan 18, 2013 17:56:14 GMT -5
I went to go see Steve L, the intake modifying guy... ...the throttle body will be mounted solely to the "lid" - we won't modify the tunnel ram at all (other than to mount intake-air-temperature sensor and vacuum connection at the rear). Wow, it's been 8 months since that visit. Recall my original plan was to mount the throttle body like this: But I decided with Steve that it shouldn't be tilted up, and that it should be parallel with the crank, so the air intake tube would be along the two green lines shown in the pic above. I finally got some pics of the finished intake and oil pan: Oil pan: looks great. Intake: what a bummer. The throttle body is too low. I sent Steve an e-mail: > It is an important aspect that the throttle body be mounted up > high. I already verified at Mike's that the throttle body in the > position you have it won't work (clearance to A/C compressor). > The reason for the dry sump was to get the extra clearance so > that the throttle body could be mounted up high and get over all > that stuff (distributor, A/C compressor, thermostat housing). > > Lets figure out the best way to proceed. > thanks, > arthur I guess I don't know what his response will be, but the intake as it stands is unusable, so it seemed best to politely explain the situation and try and work on the best path forward from this point.
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Post by spanks79 on Jan 18, 2013 20:24:13 GMT -5
Wow, glad to see the fabricator is actually doing something.
Too bad the intake turned out that way. At first glance I thought it was cool, but its clearly not what you had sketched up. The centerline of the throtle body is inline with the top of the runners. The way I see it the whole throttle body should be above the runners. Not to mention the throttle linkage would be weird as well.
I hate to say it but it looks like he took the easy way out. This was far less complex fab work than what you wanted. Wish he would have sent you some mock up pics before finishing all the welds so nice. Could have saved himself a lot of work. Or rather re-work.
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