Lets Talk Engine Builds!
Oct 1, 2012 14:15:01 GMT -5
Post by legendaryacura8 on Oct 1, 2012 14:15:01 GMT -5
So now that I have my 440, I started off basic at summit and got an engine stand ( a 2,000 lb capacity one because the motor almost folded my friends 1,000 lb stand in half!) and a simple Edelbrock Performer intake. Without getting too crazy I figured I'd throw up what I'm looking to get out of my motor and ask what you all recommend for modifications. My basic requirements are fairly simple (I think). I want an engine that's at least a little more powerful than stock. I think my requirements (in order) are:
1. It has to fit under the stock hood without any crazy modifications (Arthur, I love what you're doing, but that's a little too extreme for what I'm going for! haha)
2. It has to run well on 87 pump gas, and
3. I want to put a mild cam in it, nothing crazy, still has to be streetable and, again, run on 87!
I was told that the RV engine most likely has 452 heads which already have hardened valves, so I plan on having the heads ported. My main questions, to start with, are:
1. Does anyone have any recommendations for a cam/lifter set for what I'm looking for? (I have no idea how to decide what lift and duration I want for what I want out of my engine) and any other recommendations for replacements in the heads (i.e. other valve components)?
2. What kind of cooling system are you all running? Is the stock big block radiator with the mechanical fan doing the job, or should I consider and aftermarket aluminum radiator with electric fans? and lastly
3. Do any of you have any other recommendations on what to bring and ask for when I take it to a machine shop. here's the run down I got over at www.forcbodiesonly.com :
Wow, that's a long post, but I'm trying to get the ball rolling and start a budget to make sure I get what I need in order so I can get the block to the machine sop in a timely manner!
1. It has to fit under the stock hood without any crazy modifications (Arthur, I love what you're doing, but that's a little too extreme for what I'm going for! haha)
2. It has to run well on 87 pump gas, and
3. I want to put a mild cam in it, nothing crazy, still has to be streetable and, again, run on 87!
I was told that the RV engine most likely has 452 heads which already have hardened valves, so I plan on having the heads ported. My main questions, to start with, are:
1. Does anyone have any recommendations for a cam/lifter set for what I'm looking for? (I have no idea how to decide what lift and duration I want for what I want out of my engine) and any other recommendations for replacements in the heads (i.e. other valve components)?
2. What kind of cooling system are you all running? Is the stock big block radiator with the mechanical fan doing the job, or should I consider and aftermarket aluminum radiator with electric fans? and lastly
3. Do any of you have any other recommendations on what to bring and ask for when I take it to a machine shop. here's the run down I got over at www.forcbodiesonly.com :
1. Have the bare block acid dipped.
2. Measure the cylinders to see if they need to bored (.030 max) or just honed.
3. Measure the journals on the crank to see if they need to be turned or polished.
4. Until you do #2 & 3, you haven't a clue yet on what to do with the rotating train.
5. I seriously doubt your shop is set up for sonic checking, line boring, and decking. Save your money. You're not building a 10 second bracket racer...
6. Have HIM install new cam bearings and freeze plugs.
7. It's NOT worth trying to do a valve job. A shop doing it is no more expensive.
8. Your seats are already hardened so just ask for a std. valve job.
9. Buy your cam, new lifters, and valve components as a matched set. (A Comp Cam matched kit is just one example. There are many). Then give him the valve components for the valve job.
Wow, that's a long post, but I'm trying to get the ball rolling and start a budget to make sure I get what I need in order so I can get the block to the machine sop in a timely manner!