remove glass from window regulator
Oct 1, 2011 16:56:08 GMT -5
Post by sigmfsk on Oct 1, 2011 16:56:08 GMT -5
Here:
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/topic/9023-u-channel-weatherstripping-and-trim-parts/page__view__findpost__p__111615
I wrote:
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So here is some information on how I removed the windows on my 74 doors, and what I would do differently if I had to do it again. The front and rear windows are each attached to the window regulator via two large screws. The head of one can be seen here:
The screw is part of an assembly, the pieces of which are shown here:
The large plastic piece that houses the captive nut is pushed into a large hole in the glass (this piece is on the far side of the glass - the side closest to the outside of the door). The axle portion of this piece pushes through to the close side of the glass. Then the middle "twister" plastic piece is pushed onto the axle on the close side of the glass:
Then rotated into position, so it can't come off:
Fully assembled, but without the glass, it looks like this:
Removing each screw was a nightmare. The screw has inevitably rusted against the nut, at least enough so that when the screw is turned, the entire assembly spins with it. There's nothing locking it into position.
The captive nut does have two locating holes:
Using a set of snap-ring pliers similar to this:
to grip one of the holes, along with a few hours of swearing, I was finally able to remove the pieces. I can't find anyone that makes reproductions (I heard from reproduction specialties that they do NOT have them - this was before I sent them my giant box of parts to check out).
I couldn't fit long-handled snap ring pliers in the small space available between the glass and the door skin, so I had to use "micro" pliers, and the torque of the screw would often just pull the tiny snap ring plier jaw out of the locating hole. If I had to do it again, I would make a special tool to hold the assembly in place:
The circle around the screw hole would help because the screw sticks through the assembly a bit when fully installed. This would center the tool over the assembly, then all that would remain was to rotate the tool until the prongs fit int the receptacles. In reality, the tool would remain in position, while the assembly was rotated via the screw until the assembly lined up with the prongs.
I couldn't make the tool before I got the first assembly removed (because I wouldn't know the dimensions of how to make it), but now that I have one removed, we could use it for a template.
-------------------
I found this tool at harbor freight the other day:
It's adjustable wrench for removing the nut attaching the grinding disc to an electric grinder. The pins are adjustable to the desired width (distance apart). The pins are too large to fit in the recess of the window nut, but with some grinding on the pins, they'd fit perfectly.
hopefully you'll never need to replace a window, but if you do, I think something like this would sure come in handy,
arthur
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/topic/9023-u-channel-weatherstripping-and-trim-parts/page__view__findpost__p__111615
I wrote:
-------------------
So here is some information on how I removed the windows on my 74 doors, and what I would do differently if I had to do it again. The front and rear windows are each attached to the window regulator via two large screws. The head of one can be seen here:
The screw is part of an assembly, the pieces of which are shown here:
The large plastic piece that houses the captive nut is pushed into a large hole in the glass (this piece is on the far side of the glass - the side closest to the outside of the door). The axle portion of this piece pushes through to the close side of the glass. Then the middle "twister" plastic piece is pushed onto the axle on the close side of the glass:
Then rotated into position, so it can't come off:
Fully assembled, but without the glass, it looks like this:
Removing each screw was a nightmare. The screw has inevitably rusted against the nut, at least enough so that when the screw is turned, the entire assembly spins with it. There's nothing locking it into position.
The captive nut does have two locating holes:
Using a set of snap-ring pliers similar to this:
to grip one of the holes, along with a few hours of swearing, I was finally able to remove the pieces. I can't find anyone that makes reproductions (I heard from reproduction specialties that they do NOT have them - this was before I sent them my giant box of parts to check out).
I couldn't fit long-handled snap ring pliers in the small space available between the glass and the door skin, so I had to use "micro" pliers, and the torque of the screw would often just pull the tiny snap ring plier jaw out of the locating hole. If I had to do it again, I would make a special tool to hold the assembly in place:
The circle around the screw hole would help because the screw sticks through the assembly a bit when fully installed. This would center the tool over the assembly, then all that would remain was to rotate the tool until the prongs fit int the receptacles. In reality, the tool would remain in position, while the assembly was rotated via the screw until the assembly lined up with the prongs.
I couldn't make the tool before I got the first assembly removed (because I wouldn't know the dimensions of how to make it), but now that I have one removed, we could use it for a template.
-------------------
I found this tool at harbor freight the other day:
It's adjustable wrench for removing the nut attaching the grinding disc to an electric grinder. The pins are adjustable to the desired width (distance apart). The pins are too large to fit in the recess of the window nut, but with some grinding on the pins, they'd fit perfectly.
hopefully you'll never need to replace a window, but if you do, I think something like this would sure come in handy,
arthur