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Post by aeroplayer on Feb 27, 2020 7:10:58 GMT -5
Hello,
It seems to be time to ugrade driveline.(still not yet money for new paint 😄). Idea was to keep existing 360 and stock heads. Some advices appreciated, especially on cam selection to match with torque converter and axle ratio.
Below is some background info.
Purpose: Purpose: Street driven daily car, including icy and snowy conditions. 80 % highway (55 and 80 mph) 15 % city 5 % pedal to the medal (burn outs etc.) and nice idle.
So, not a race strip car. Would be great to get some acceleration from traffic lights, 30 mph and from 50 mph speeds.
Engine & set-up: This is the existing and future planned set up (main components): Engine: 360 with Edelbrock performer RPM airgap intake 7576, std heads and exhaust, Fitech EFI, MSD ingnition, stock headers. Gearbox: 727 Rear end: 8 1/4" Stock gear: from 2.71 to 3.21 Tires: 15" 235 / 75 => Tire height ~ 29"
It has also power brakes and AC (so some vacuum at idle would be great).
Engine will be overhauled: Compression from stock to 9.5:1. (new pistons, surfaces machined etc.) Stock rods, stock crank, stock windage tray, adjustable rocker arms. Purpose is to keep stock heads with mild porting and overhaul.
Torque converter to be upgraded. Most likely there is 10 3/4" TC. Gearbox will be opened & strengthened. Drive shaft renewed (new joints etc.) Rear: Gears will be changed and bearings renewed.
Main thing to me is to match cam, torque converter and rear end. All comments more than welcome.
Cam: A) Plan is to put .485 lift and 230/236 duration @ .050" and .486/.491 lift with LS to 112. RPM range will be at 1800-6000.
B) some other cam option?
Torque converter: - Idea is to put 2450 rpm stall speed.
Rear end: - Idea is to have 8 1/4" with 3.21 ratio and "trac-lok" installed.
All comments are more than welcome!
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Post by aeroplayer on Feb 27, 2020 13:38:16 GMT -5
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Post by gtopat on Feb 27, 2020 16:28:01 GMT -5
I have a Hughes camshaft in my 440. Nothing but good things to say about them. The break-in procedure was pretty intense, but I've had no issues with their stuff longevity wise. I definitely recommend spending a few extra bucks for a 9-position timing set. I used one from Summit and it wasn't expensive. I have found even the (made in US) CompCams single or 3-position sets to be dangerously inaccurate. Stacked tolerances suck. I use the "Whiplash" cam, which has a pretty wicked idle, but is *not* just a gimmick. Its designed to build cylinder pressure in the low compression engines. Some of that is just a result of its 102degree installed centerline, but the thing works and makes good power. Its just a huge pain in the ass to tune off-idle. You can call up (or email) Hughes or any other camshaft maker and tell them what you are doing and they'll suggest a cam that will work. Lots to consider; weight of the car, street or track, gearing, tire diameter, auto/stick, converter stall... etc... They'll find the cam to fit your needs. I agree with your thoughts against peak HP. For a big, heavy street car with an automatic, midrange torque is way more fun and better burnouts. That's how I build my road-course engines
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Post by aeroplayer on Feb 28, 2020 14:12:58 GMT -5
Hi, thanks for sharing! Great info. I asked comp cams based on description above and they gave the 230/236 duration @ .050" and .486/.491 lift with LS to 112. I think I’m on right track with that cam (for my use & preferences 😂), lift & timing is good. I’m still thinking Lobe Separation Angle - 112 will give good performace (wide torque & good fuel economy). However, the more narrow LS, like 107? Would give nice sound on idle & cruising and less power. So - sense says take the 112 and feeling says take more narrow angle.
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Post by aeroplayer on Feb 28, 2020 14:14:55 GMT -5
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Post by aeroplayer on Feb 28, 2020 14:16:14 GMT -5
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Post by aeroplayer on Feb 28, 2020 14:18:08 GMT -5
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Post by aeroplayer on Feb 28, 2020 14:22:40 GMT -5
Above some pics today - today was a good day. Motor, gearbox, drive shaft is out. Nothing big broken. Just one gearbox cooler hose. Tomorrow few hundred mile drive to deliver gear box for tune up and also drop motor to friend for build it up based on a spec.
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Post by aeroplayer on Mar 2, 2020 9:03:09 GMT -5
Block open. Blown some oil through the cylinder. This cylinder has been out of game. No wonder the EFI was hard to tune and idle was a bit rough...
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Post by aeroplayer on Mar 2, 2020 9:09:34 GMT -5
Cam was worn out and one push rod was twisted. Also one rocker arm was broken. Crankshaft seems to be ok and some small step in the cylinder wall. Detail inspection continues ...
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Post by aeroplayer on Mar 7, 2020 7:48:49 GMT -5
Parts washed. Then some cylinder rework, head porting and tuning. I was thinking to have blue color as the original engine, even though I like more orange. What is the bluesmobile ”cop motor” color?
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Post by aeroplayer on Mar 7, 2020 7:59:41 GMT -5
As the car is now under service, it is good to solve the EFI ”dirty” fuel issue. The old tank had some mystic dark & very fine dust that blocked the 30 micron fuel filter after a while (several tanks of gasoline). It was getting better & better but it was time to fix the issue. I got very good advices how to ”clean the tank” inside. However I had also another issue. The EFi fuel pump seemed to be sensitive on fuel level and on low fuel levels, fuel started to cavitate inside the pump. Luckily I got the new tank (Spectra premium CR22A). Plan is now to put the noisy fuel pump inside the tank and modify it so that I would have ”surge tank” type of reserve to feed the fuel pump. Lets see how this goes ...
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Post by aeroplayer on Mar 7, 2020 8:02:03 GMT -5
Parts starts to come back. Drive shaft straightness was checked and adjusted, balanced and new bearings and joints were changed. So this would go next 40+ years 😆
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Post by cynot on Mar 9, 2020 6:30:08 GMT -5
Making great progress! keep the pics coming!
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Post by spyphish on Mar 9, 2020 8:36:19 GMT -5
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