dye rigid plastic with SEM color coat
Oct 6, 2011 16:31:04 GMT -5
Post by sigmfsk on Oct 6, 2011 16:31:04 GMT -5
Some good introductory dying info is here:
www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/02/ProjectMXInterior/
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/8791-diary-bluesmobile-3.html
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/8452-got-my-4d-10.html
semproducts.com/images/Users/1/training-pdfs/RAP-1_ENGLISH%200510.pdf
and my Marin County thread on BBC.
The first step is to determine what type of plastic is to be dyed:
a) standard, somewhat flexible plastic, ABS, PVC, smear with acetone
or
b) rigid, problem plastics, TPO, EPDM, PP, no smear with acetone
SEM offers the tech tip:
> If the type of plastic is unknown, place a drop of acetone on the back of
> the plastic and rub it with your finger. If the plastic smears and melts, use
> 3836( ) SAND FREE for your adhesion promoter
> [the plastic is standard ABS / PVC flexibile plastic].
> If acetone does not have
> an effect on the plastic, use 3986( ) PLASTIC ADHESION PROMOTER
> or 7772( ) XXX ADHESION PROMOTER
> [the plastic is problematic TPO / EPDM / PP rigid plastic]
On my Monaco, I found that the sail panels and inner and outer interior a-pillar trim pieces were of RIGID type. All the other plastic pieces were of the flexible type. These instructions are for the rigid type.
--------------------
How to apply SEM COLOR COAT, such as 15173 SEM Camel Aerosol.
(or more accurately, how I applied 15173, and I believe my steps are compatible with the official instructions. The instructions sometimes say "perform A or B", and I just list what I did).
[Note that there is a difference between SEM COLOR COAT and SEM SURE-COAT. These steps are for SEM COLOR COAT]
---------------
Instructions from:
semproducts.com/images/Users/1/training-pdfs/RAP-1_ENGLISH%200510.pdf
1) clean with hot soapy water and a sponge
2) clean with 39362 SEM SOAP and a toothbrush
3) determine if plastic is "flexible" or "rigid": place a drop of acetone on the back of the plastic.
plastic smears and melts = rigid (ABS, PVC)
plastic has no effect = flexible (TPO, EPDM, PP)
4) clean with 39362 SEM SOAP and a gray scuff pad. Scrub thoroughly, rinse with water and dry.
5) clean with 38353 PLASTIC & LEATHER PREP using a clean lint free towel and wiping on one direction.
[Note: wiping in one direction will remove contaminants from the surface, rather than smearing the contaminants around]
[Note: The SEM instructions say: Rinse with water and dry. If contamination still exists after cleaning, water will bead on surface. Repeat until beading no longer occurs. But I found that everything was so clean at this point, it wasn't necessary to get wet and wait for it to dry. I just wiped with 38353, waited a few minutes for it to dry, and then continued]
[Note: I performed step 5 while wearing latex gloves to ensure that I didn't get any finger oil on the parts between wiping them down and hanging them for paint]
6a) RIGID PLASTIC
Apply a medium wet coat of 38363 SAND FREE. While still wet, apply a light coat of COLOR COAT. Avoid applying the first coat of COLOR COAT too heavily as sagging may occur.
7) Apply top coat (COLOR COAT)
----
I waited about 7 minutes between coats. I used a "bandit" respirator
as recommended by Finishmaster, the local SEM dealer:
www.finishmaster.com/
After 4 coats, I could still see half the green plastic underneath, while this guy:
www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/02/ProjectMXInterior/
was done after 4 coats. Clearly I needed to up my spray game. I started spraying heavier, so that each coat looked "wet", but not enough to drip. I spent a total of 7 coats, and 2 cans of Camel. The ford guy used 1 can for an entire door panel, so me using 1 can for a sail panel and inner and outer a-pillar covers sounds about right.
Here's the before:
green driver side from 74 marin county (keep for spotlight holes), to be dyed Camel.
tan from 76 parts car (keep for no spotlight holes), to be dyed Camel to match.
Notice the styling of the pieces is actually slightly different, with the 76 having a lip:
Here's the finished product:
along with the rest of the hard plastics:
Notice the separate broken pieces on the right (largest for a-pillar, smallest for sail panel). They were broken when I received the 76, but the breaks weren't noticeable in the car, as each side of the break was held in place by a different component. So I figured it didn't make sense to try and glue them together. I'll jigsaw them together upon final interior assembly in the car.
Mostly from archived info here:
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/topic/8327-theres-a-new-marin-county-sheriff-in-town
www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/02/ProjectMXInterior/
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/8791-diary-bluesmobile-3.html
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/8452-got-my-4d-10.html
semproducts.com/images/Users/1/training-pdfs/RAP-1_ENGLISH%200510.pdf
and my Marin County thread on BBC.
The first step is to determine what type of plastic is to be dyed:
a) standard, somewhat flexible plastic, ABS, PVC, smear with acetone
or
b) rigid, problem plastics, TPO, EPDM, PP, no smear with acetone
SEM offers the tech tip:
> If the type of plastic is unknown, place a drop of acetone on the back of
> the plastic and rub it with your finger. If the plastic smears and melts, use
> 3836( ) SAND FREE for your adhesion promoter
> [the plastic is standard ABS / PVC flexibile plastic].
> If acetone does not have
> an effect on the plastic, use 3986( ) PLASTIC ADHESION PROMOTER
> or 7772( ) XXX ADHESION PROMOTER
> [the plastic is problematic TPO / EPDM / PP rigid plastic]
On my Monaco, I found that the sail panels and inner and outer interior a-pillar trim pieces were of RIGID type. All the other plastic pieces were of the flexible type. These instructions are for the rigid type.
--------------------
How to apply SEM COLOR COAT, such as 15173 SEM Camel Aerosol.
(or more accurately, how I applied 15173, and I believe my steps are compatible with the official instructions. The instructions sometimes say "perform A or B", and I just list what I did).
[Note that there is a difference between SEM COLOR COAT and SEM SURE-COAT. These steps are for SEM COLOR COAT]
---------------
Instructions from:
semproducts.com/images/Users/1/training-pdfs/RAP-1_ENGLISH%200510.pdf
1) clean with hot soapy water and a sponge
2) clean with 39362 SEM SOAP and a toothbrush
3) determine if plastic is "flexible" or "rigid": place a drop of acetone on the back of the plastic.
plastic smears and melts = rigid (ABS, PVC)
plastic has no effect = flexible (TPO, EPDM, PP)
4) clean with 39362 SEM SOAP and a gray scuff pad. Scrub thoroughly, rinse with water and dry.
5) clean with 38353 PLASTIC & LEATHER PREP using a clean lint free towel and wiping on one direction.
[Note: wiping in one direction will remove contaminants from the surface, rather than smearing the contaminants around]
[Note: The SEM instructions say: Rinse with water and dry. If contamination still exists after cleaning, water will bead on surface. Repeat until beading no longer occurs. But I found that everything was so clean at this point, it wasn't necessary to get wet and wait for it to dry. I just wiped with 38353, waited a few minutes for it to dry, and then continued]
[Note: I performed step 5 while wearing latex gloves to ensure that I didn't get any finger oil on the parts between wiping them down and hanging them for paint]
6a) RIGID PLASTIC
Apply a medium wet coat of 38363 SAND FREE. While still wet, apply a light coat of COLOR COAT. Avoid applying the first coat of COLOR COAT too heavily as sagging may occur.
7) Apply top coat (COLOR COAT)
----
I waited about 7 minutes between coats. I used a "bandit" respirator
as recommended by Finishmaster, the local SEM dealer:
www.finishmaster.com/
After 4 coats, I could still see half the green plastic underneath, while this guy:
www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/02/ProjectMXInterior/
was done after 4 coats. Clearly I needed to up my spray game. I started spraying heavier, so that each coat looked "wet", but not enough to drip. I spent a total of 7 coats, and 2 cans of Camel. The ford guy used 1 can for an entire door panel, so me using 1 can for a sail panel and inner and outer a-pillar covers sounds about right.
Here's the before:
green driver side from 74 marin county (keep for spotlight holes), to be dyed Camel.
tan from 76 parts car (keep for no spotlight holes), to be dyed Camel to match.
Notice the styling of the pieces is actually slightly different, with the 76 having a lip:
Here's the finished product:
along with the rest of the hard plastics:
Notice the separate broken pieces on the right (largest for a-pillar, smallest for sail panel). They were broken when I received the 76, but the breaks weren't noticeable in the car, as each side of the break was held in place by a different component. So I figured it didn't make sense to try and glue them together. I'll jigsaw them together upon final interior assembly in the car.
Mostly from archived info here:
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/topic/8327-theres-a-new-marin-county-sheriff-in-town