|
|
Post by gtopat on Aug 19, 2018 20:51:47 GMT -5
As 58hemifury said best... here it is, another fine mess I've gotten myself into. Extremely rusty former NYSP cruiser, last registered in 1991. I had just a bit of time today between rain storms, so pardon my pictures.
 There is not one salvageable piece of sheet metal on the whole car, aside from the header panel. The floors are gone so the subframe pulled out and the front of the unibody is resting on the trailer. Had to hammer/pry the driver door open which ripped the rusty b-pillar from the roof. Rubber floors, condition currently unknown. Tan (gold) cloth seats need recovering, but salvageable. Ticket light, looked OK, maybe kind of pitted. Steering wheel with the 3-spokes and horn ring, split at the top. Driver door card was shot but the other 3 looked OK. Dash pad is shot, previous owner cut a big hole in it for god-knows-what. The fenders of my trailer are blocking the doors at the moment, so pictures/prices of the interior coming in the next few days. Consider the 14o "spoken for."
"Doghouse" - Fenders are shot, but the P/S could be "clipped" to a Royal fender. Header panel/grille look good. D/S bezel good, P/S cracked. See pictures. Push bumpers are from a Westchester, NY cruiser and bolted to the bottom of the bumper. Both turn signal lenses are present.
The "heavy duty" suspension is available as I already have it in my car. Torsion bars, rear leaf springs, lower "non-isolated" rear shock mounts & front sway bar. $250 for it all.
It should have the tighter/quicker "police" steering box, I'd like to keep it, but I'll listen to offers.
I bought the car for the steel-crank 440 HP, but I'd be willing to talk about it. (hilariously stamped "440 PH" on the ID pad, close enough!) Non-AC car, HP exhaust manifolds. No idea yet if its stuck.
If there's anything else you're interested in, drop me a line ASAP. The whole car has to go, I need my trailer to go racing! I'm willing to ship anything/everything at buyers expense, within reason. Any questions,requests for things I missed, better pictures, let me know here, via PM or email (interceptor281 at g mail) I intend to start tearing it down this Friday (8/24) scrapping most of it, keeping the bits you all want/need. Lets talk.
|
|
|
|
Post by cynot on Aug 20, 2018 7:33:02 GMT -5
PM sent
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2018 10:12:58 GMT -5
PM Sent.
|
|
|
|
Post by jason on Aug 20, 2018 16:49:47 GMT -5
PM sent.
|
|
|
|
Post by gtopat on Aug 20, 2018 22:54:36 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by gtopat on Aug 22, 2018 11:56:23 GMT -5
Edit: Updated: 8/26/18
See below...
|
|
|
|
Post by AZBlues on Aug 23, 2018 1:48:28 GMT -5
PM sent.
|
|
|
|
Post by gtopat on Aug 26, 2018 21:48:05 GMT -5
EDIT: Update 9/13/18 See next post!
I discovered today one of the torsion bars (RH) is broken, so they are "not available" until I source a replacement. Still have the 7-leaf rear springs, "cop" lower shock mounts and bigger front sway bar. Also found this car had a rear windshield defroster below the parcel shelf, I sawzalled the whole thing out, so its complete, but no idea if it works... Feel free to still send requests, I still have a bunch of pending sales to photograph, not much of the car left!
-Pat |
|
|
|
Post by gtopat on Sept 13, 2018 17:27:22 GMT -5
Probably last update to this thread. Thanks for the interest everyone. Just a handful of parts left...
~1" diameter "Cop" front sway bar. $50
Rear windshield defroster setup. Includes everything pictured. The switch and bezel from the dash & the blower/vent setup from the parcel shelf. The motor turns (stiffly) by hand but does not run. The switch works, but is crudded up. $50 for it all.
Still have the 7-leaf springs, quick-ratio steering & spindles/control arms, but I figure they're way too big to ship. I put the '73-casting forged-crank 440HP & 727 on CL too; its stuck (small hole in the valley pan). Maybe someone will rescue me before I dump a bunch of $$$ into it.
Drop me a line with any questions. I'll keep this post updated by deleting stuff as it sells. The rest will just get thrown onto the parts shelf.
-Pat
|
|
|
|
Post by flcl64 on Sept 13, 2018 22:47:18 GMT -5
Probably last update to this thread. Thanks for the interest everyone. Just a handful of parts left... All your pics are broken! |
|
|
|
Post by Steam McQueen on Sept 14, 2018 0:07:00 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by cynot on Sept 14, 2018 7:25:22 GMT -5
What is the difference between the isolated/non-isolated spring mounts? I recently bought some rear springs and mounts and they have the rubber bushings on the mounts, which I am assuming means they are Isolated? Can anyone tell me the pros/cons for this setup? Thanks.
|
|
|
|
Post by spyphish on Sept 14, 2018 16:20:30 GMT -5
I think the factory rear antiroll has the top with no rubber and bottom with. I have one at home to check next week. A Firm Feel kit has the bottom without rubber for sure, maybe both. Will check Tuesday.
|
|
|
|
Post by gtopat on Sept 14, 2018 17:02:05 GMT -5
All your pics are broken! Crap, apologies. I’m still struggling since the demise of photobucket and my “retirement” from FB. I guess Google Photos is not the answer. I’ll get them fixed when I get home tonight. -Pat |
|
|
|
Post by gtopat on Sept 16, 2018 14:23:05 GMT -5
Pictures fixed! What is the difference between the isolated/non-isolated spring mounts? I recently bought some rear springs and mounts and they have the rubber bushings on the mounts, which I am assuming means they are Isolated? Can anyone tell me the pros/cons for this setup? Thanks.
The civilian cars had a rubber lined "clamshell" around the leaf springs, which the axle sat on top of, and the U-bolts fastened to the bottom of; I imagine for NVH reduction. The police cars did away with this isolation, setting the axle directly on the top of the leaf and the shock mount directly beneath the leaf, firmly sandwiching the leaf between steel with the U-bolts. Swapping to the non-isolated mount theoretically does away with some sloppiness (no rubber) at the expense of a bit more NVH. The cop mounts are also required if you intend to run a factory style rear sway bar, as part of the sway bar hardware is clamped between the bottom of the leaf and these shock mounts.
|
|
