motor plate / mid plate
Feb 20, 2013 18:07:11 GMT -5
Post by sigmfsk on Feb 20, 2013 18:07:11 GMT -5
I've been thinking about motor mounting.
When running a GM transmission behind a mopar motor, it seems a common solution to use an adpater mid-plate (a wide thin plate mounted between the bellhousing and the back of the motor to mount the rear of the motor to the frame). This way, a stock GM transmission can be used without modification.
drr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/80760912/m/2217064116
But I don't need that adapter plate, as I already have an "ultra bell" mounted to my modified 4L80E transmission.
from
bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=owners&thread=45&post=3290
A mid-plate also makes it easier to pull the trans (because the motor doesn't need to be supported).
-------------
Apparently, mounting a motor via the stock motor mounts can put a lot of stress on the cylinders:
> ...steel motor mounts will pull your block apart and cause main bearing
> problems and also pull the block registers apart by .0005 to .0015.
www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7943148&postcount=6
I suppose rubber motor mounts would alleviate that problem somewhat.
It seems a common solution to stressing the cylinders is to use a motor plate, and a plate also can make life easier with:
1) clearance for oil pump
2) clearance for headers
3) putting motor in non-stock position
4) something to mount engine accessories to (alternator, A/C, dry sump oil tank)
5) tying together the left and right frame rails.
Here's a pic showing the basic setup.
from
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1969693025&postcount=22
The plate wedges between the block and water pump. Either shave the water pump down, or put a spacer on the crank so that the crank pulley and water pump pulley line up.
Here's another setup:
from
www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7965226&postcount=4
That's a 440 with the same Indy tunnel ram intake I'll be using. You know my motor will be low when all that will fit under the hood.
I've been planning for a long while to use a motor plate. It will help with many things, including clearance for that giant dry sump pump hanging off the side.
The questions is:
1) solidly mount the motor plate, or cushion it
2) attach it just at the bottom, or also use it to tie the left & right sides together
3) use a mid-plate
From what I can gather, it's OK to solidly mount the motor with a motor-plate, and not have a mid-plate, as long as I use a standard rubber transmission mount. With a solid motor plate mounting, a solid trans mount would cause the trans case to crack. And although it seems a long run to have the motor/trans combo supported only at the back of the trans and the front of the motor, many people seem to run this way fine.
Here's a pic of what I'm thinking of:
Instead of the Ram logo, maybe I'll have a cutout of Jake & Elwood.
With this setup, the motor still needs to be located longitudinally. And the standard block motor-mount connections can be used for that:
from
www.dragstuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2687
That guy calls it a lateral-limiter, but it seems clearly a longitudinal-limiter.
It seems that I'm not the only one that calls it that:
www.aeicnc.com/lsxlqx-chevrolet-enginechassis-longitudinal-travel-limiter-kit.html
When running a GM transmission behind a mopar motor, it seems a common solution to use an adpater mid-plate (a wide thin plate mounted between the bellhousing and the back of the motor to mount the rear of the motor to the frame). This way, a stock GM transmission can be used without modification.
drr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/80760912/m/2217064116
But I don't need that adapter plate, as I already have an "ultra bell" mounted to my modified 4L80E transmission.
from
bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=owners&thread=45&post=3290
A mid-plate also makes it easier to pull the trans (because the motor doesn't need to be supported).
-------------
Apparently, mounting a motor via the stock motor mounts can put a lot of stress on the cylinders:
> ...steel motor mounts will pull your block apart and cause main bearing
> problems and also pull the block registers apart by .0005 to .0015.
www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7943148&postcount=6
I suppose rubber motor mounts would alleviate that problem somewhat.
It seems a common solution to stressing the cylinders is to use a motor plate, and a plate also can make life easier with:
1) clearance for oil pump
2) clearance for headers
3) putting motor in non-stock position
4) something to mount engine accessories to (alternator, A/C, dry sump oil tank)
5) tying together the left and right frame rails.
Here's a pic showing the basic setup.
from
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1969693025&postcount=22
The plate wedges between the block and water pump. Either shave the water pump down, or put a spacer on the crank so that the crank pulley and water pump pulley line up.
Here's another setup:
from
www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7965226&postcount=4
That's a 440 with the same Indy tunnel ram intake I'll be using. You know my motor will be low when all that will fit under the hood.
I've been planning for a long while to use a motor plate. It will help with many things, including clearance for that giant dry sump pump hanging off the side.
The questions is:
1) solidly mount the motor plate, or cushion it
2) attach it just at the bottom, or also use it to tie the left & right sides together
3) use a mid-plate
From what I can gather, it's OK to solidly mount the motor with a motor-plate, and not have a mid-plate, as long as I use a standard rubber transmission mount. With a solid motor plate mounting, a solid trans mount would cause the trans case to crack. And although it seems a long run to have the motor/trans combo supported only at the back of the trans and the front of the motor, many people seem to run this way fine.
Here's a pic of what I'm thinking of:
Instead of the Ram logo, maybe I'll have a cutout of Jake & Elwood.
With this setup, the motor still needs to be located longitudinally. And the standard block motor-mount connections can be used for that:
from
www.dragstuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2687
That guy calls it a lateral-limiter, but it seems clearly a longitudinal-limiter.
It seems that I'm not the only one that calls it that:
www.aeicnc.com/lsxlqx-chevrolet-enginechassis-longitudinal-travel-limiter-kit.html