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Post by spanks79 on Nov 16, 2012 22:30:56 GMT -5
I brought a handful of 3/8 and 1/2" drive Philips sockets with me when I visited Arthur earlier this spring, with the intention of removing the fenders from his Fury, by the time I got there he already had them removed, via cutting the bottom 3" off of the fender with a saws all!
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Post by sigmfsk on Nov 16, 2012 23:05:04 GMT -5
I...by the time I got there he already had them removed, via cutting the bottom 3" off of the fender with a saws all! Ahh, yes Legendary, there is this method. You can see the remaining piece of the fender at the bottom of the pic, bent downward so that you see the backside: Not recommended if you plan on re-using the fender.
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Post by legendaryacura8 on Nov 17, 2012 15:15:07 GMT -5
Well I have every intention f re-using these fenders, it's pretty much the whole reason I bought the '74! Haha. Anyway, I got some PB Blaster and was able to get two of the three screws out of the drivers side, and none out on the passenger side. I stripped the center on on the drivers side one out pretty bad. I picked up a #4 Phillips screw socket, but apparently it needs a #5, for anyone else who was wondering. Now I just needs to figure out how to get the stripped one out...
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Post by countrybunker on Nov 17, 2012 19:16:11 GMT -5
Well I have every intention f re-using these fenders, it's pretty much the whole reason I bought the '74! Haha. Anyway, I got some PB Blaster and was able to get two of the three screws out of the drivers side, and none out on the passenger side. I stripped the center on on the drivers side one out pretty bad. I picked up a #4 Phillips screw socket, but apparently it needs a #5, for anyone else who was wondering. Now I just needs to figure out how to get the stripped one out... I wish I could help out a bit more, being I've been doing the same work.. However that is the one good thing about all the old rusty stuff. Everything broke/crumbled right off lol. However.... A couple years ago The driveshaft u-joint strap bolts on the rear of my newport gave out on me while driving one day . The bolts sheared right off, leaving the threads still in the holes. I remember buying a kit, where you drilled and tapped a hole into the remaining bolt, except you tapped it backwords. That way when you were tightening into the new hole in the bolt, you were actually turning the bolt counter clockwise. bringing it right out of the threads. This should work if there is enough meat in the screw/bolt to drill into. Before drilling a hole, I would take a torch, and heat the screws/bolts up real good, take the closest fitting screwdriver, and smack the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. You want to shock the threads, and release them. Hope this somewhat helps.
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Post by legendaryacura8 on Nov 17, 2012 20:20:42 GMT -5
Well, I got almost everything else out except for 3 of the bolts that go from the inner fender to the fender itself. I know what you're talking about with the reverse threaded tap/dye thing, the name just eludes me as well at the moment. I'll have to try the whole heat up and hit thing next weekend, the daylight's gone and I have to work tomorrow...
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Post by countrybunker on Nov 18, 2012 15:25:29 GMT -5
Good to hear! Those inner fender to fender bolts can be a real PITA! When I got my fenders from bluzman a while back, the inners and fenders were still bolted together. They will come out all as one piece, if that will help you.. Would make it alot easier accessing the inner fender, to fender bolts. However it is alot more sturdy being on the car. Ofcoarse every one off the clips that the bolts bolt to broke, and just spun, except maybe for 1 or 2 on mine. Had to resort to some vice grips to get em out. But used the same method, heat em up real good (not red hot, but real warm) then work em out. Usually what you have to resort to on every nut/bolt on a rust belt car. Gotta love the salt!
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Post by sigmfsk on Nov 18, 2012 15:58:27 GMT -5
I stripped the center on on the drivers side one out pretty bad. I picked up a #4 Phillips screw socket, but apparently it needs a #5, for anyone else who was wondering. It seems the largest phillips is a #4: > The biggest, Phillips #4, fits sizes 18, 20 and 24. www.ehow.com/info_8680336_size-differences-phillips-screwdrivers.html#ixzz2Cbqx7c8xand more info en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drivesMy guess is that you can get a #4 phillips bit that is physically small (like in a 1/4" drive), and a #4 phillips bit that is physically large (like in a 1/2" drive), and both will fit the profile of that giant screw for the Monaco fender, but the 1/2" drive bit will engage more of the screw head. So the 1/4" drive bit will fit, but will be more likely to strip out the small contact area in the center of the screw. Now I just needs to figure out how to get the stripped one out... I think your job is pretty easy, now. You have a giant phillips head screw witht the center stripped out. It's a great locator for a drill bit. Simply drill through the screw with larger and larger bits, and eventually you will have drilled out the screw and the fender will be disconnected. I wouldn't worry about trying to easy-out the screw. You don't care about any of the threads in the Monaco (from what I can gather), you just want the fender.
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Post by spanks79 on Nov 19, 2012 12:30:39 GMT -5
Heres the set up. #4 Phillips 3/8 drive on an impact combined with PB Blaster. My buddy, Mike had the right front fender off in less then 30 minutes. Edit: We ended up cutting the heads off of two of the left side screws, they started to round off and instead of messing with it, just cut them with a cut off wheel.
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Post by legendaryacura8 on Nov 21, 2012 17:01:13 GMT -5
Well I finally got all of those pesky screws out! I ended up just drilling straight through the screw heads and after I got through the back end I was able to use the #4 phillips socket to get them out. What a Hassle! Now I'm on to my next pain in the ass. I have 3 broken anchor nuts on the inner fender going to the fender up by the fender turn signals. I'm having a hell of a time trying to get an anchor nut on them! The last problem I have is a completely broken anchor nut. This last one goes to the two bolts that hold the fender onto the support bracket on the drivers side by the firewall. It's the back one and I can't for the life of me even see how to get anything on it, it's just hidden behind solid sheet metal!
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Post by legendaryacura8 on Nov 24, 2012 19:21:08 GMT -5
Well I finally got those stupid fenders off! A lot less rust than I expected to see, but still some areas that need attention... Now I have the same probelm as mentioned earlier. There's one bolt on the support bracket for the drivers side fender, and even with it off I cant see the nut on the back. Any ideas?
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Post by legendaryacura8 on Jun 7, 2013 15:41:07 GMT -5
Well, got some pretty crappy news today, took the 440 block I had to a shop to get it cleaned and honed, and it turns out there's a nice crack in the side of the block! Luckily I only paid about 200 for the complete motor, and it still came with good heads, but now I have to go source a new block...
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Post by sigmfsk on Jun 8, 2013 12:18:57 GMT -5
Well, got some pretty crappy news today, took the 440 block I had to a shop to get it cleaned and honed, and it turns out there's a nice crack in the side of the block! Argh. I don't have a block for you, but I do empathize a solid "argh" with you.
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Post by ti4438 on Jun 9, 2013 7:29:09 GMT -5
BOGUS!
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Post by legendaryacura8 on Aug 4, 2013 18:12:06 GMT -5
Well, a minor victory this weekend. I got another 440 out of a 76 motorhome that only had 35,000 miles on it! Only paid 350 for it, and I got it all torn down this weekend. Hopefully (funds pending) I'll get it into a shop next week, and hopefully also get no more surprises!
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Post by sigmfsk on Aug 4, 2013 20:49:05 GMT -5
I got another 440 out of a 76 motorhome that only had 35,000 miles on it! Awesome; that's some low miles! Here's to it being in good shape. A 440 and a bluesmobile goes together like 4 fried chickens and a coke.
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