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Post by scatpack on May 8, 2013 20:03:46 GMT -5
well my problem has to be in the ignition switch and/or wiring from the switch. Any wiring schematics out there? Also I need the plastic hood rollers.
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Post by sigmfsk on May 9, 2013 2:42:15 GMT -5
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Post by scatpack on May 9, 2013 7:53:57 GMT -5
thanks Arthur.
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Post by scatpack on May 9, 2013 8:14:29 GMT -5
I'm looking through the book now. But I searched all the threads about maintenence and parts and I can't find the hood rollers.
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Post by sigmfsk on May 9, 2013 15:47:29 GMT -5
I'm looking through the book now. But I searched all the threads about maintenence and parts and I can't find the hood rollers. When searching, I always change the default from "7" days to "777" days. Search for "rollers", with an entry for 777 days, and you'll see the thread on hood rollers. your friend in searching, arthur
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Post by scatpack on May 9, 2013 21:08:50 GMT -5
ok found it. I guess I shoulda seen the 7 day limit. I'll see if I can order some. Still searching through the service manual. thanks again
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Post by Ghostbluesman (Ghostsoldier) on May 10, 2013 19:14:05 GMT -5
You might want to double-check the application, before you order from Martin at Arizona Parts; I ordered part number 3788198 from his website, which lists the rollers for 1974-78 P,D,C,& Y bodies, but when they arrived, they turned out to be round steel rollers...and my stock ones are square plastic/nylon. I haven't had time to contact him about it yet, but I'm not sure why they would be listed for my car, and then tun out to be steel and round, unless it's a direct replacement. Rob
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Post by scatpack on May 10, 2013 19:56:45 GMT -5
thanks for that info Rob.
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Post by scatpack on May 10, 2013 20:09:16 GMT -5
Could the starter relay cause my problem? Turn the key, it starts. Let go of the key it dies. Turn key again and hold it in the start position it stays running. I have been looking through the wiring diagrams and need to check the wiring from the ignition switch all the way to the....well to the problem.
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Post by Lord Vadus on May 10, 2013 20:35:29 GMT -5
Could the starter relay cause my problem? Turn the key, it starts. Let go of the key it dies. Turn key again and hold it in the start position it stays running. I have been looking through the wiring diagrams and need to check the wiring from the ignition switch all the way to the....well to the problem. That could be a wire grounding through the ignition switch.
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Post by spanks79 on May 10, 2013 21:08:24 GMT -5
Check for power at the coil or ballast resistor with the key in the on position, if there is no power see if you get power in the crank position. My guess is that you will find 12v at the resistor during crank but now in the key on position. I briefly glanced at the wiring diagram, it is likely the ignition switch itself. It probably has a bad contact inside it. That switch is no small chore to replace but it is doable. You should be able to get a switch from a local auto parts store. You can also try and plug it in at the base of the column and try it before going to the trouble to install it.
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Post by scatpack on May 11, 2013 7:22:18 GMT -5
One thing about my 69 Charger it was easy to replace a wire harness. This car is all one big harness. I need to swap my column out anyway with the tilt one I got. It needs an ignition switch. Guess I need to start pulling it apart. thanks
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Post by scatpack on May 11, 2013 12:18:11 GMT -5
well looks like I had the new wring from the ecu harness hooked up to the top side of the ballast resistor. Swapped it to the bottom 2 prongs and it fired right up. I got to get some coolant for it, check it over and go drive around in the field some. Also want to get a longer coil wire and move it to the fender well and off the intake. I am excited!!!
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Post by yellowrr on May 16, 2013 13:50:36 GMT -5
Could the starter relay cause my problem? Turn the key, it starts. Let go of the key it dies. Turn key again and hold it in the start position it stays running. I have been looking through the wiring diagrams and need to check the wiring from the ignition switch all the way to the....well to the problem. This is THE most common problem with older mopars! The 4 prong ballast resistors go bad about once a year on my car, so I ALWAYS carry several spares (rockauto.com is MUCH cheaper than NAPA, Advance, etc...). The ballast resistor lets the coil get a full 12 volts when cranking, but as soon as you let go of the key so that it goes to the RUN position, it uses the other side of the ballast resistor to cut the voltage to the coil down to 8 or 9 volts or something like that. They say that it makes the spark plugs last longer and it lets some of the ignition parts run a little cooler.
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Post by yellowrr on May 16, 2013 13:54:35 GMT -5
SCATPACK... Would you want to swap bumpers? My car is a '75 with a '74 grille. No one has ever noticed that I still have the 75 bumper and lower grille though. I removed the bumper guards to put the push bar on so that I wouldn't have to drill any additional holes in an otherwise decent bumper. I'm not THAT much of a "movie-correct" perfectionist and I had the bar fabricated to fit the bumper guard hole spacing and didn't try to make it 1,000% correct to the movie. I'd be glad to send you my bumper, lower grille, and the parking lights in exhange for the same thing from yours? Maybe even the push bar too, since it fits so nice? I'm back in southeast Virginia now, so maybe we can find someone making the trip and they can carry it up & back for me & you? I don't recall if you ever responded SCATPACK... If you ever want to trade/sell that 74 bumper and lower grille, I'd LOVE to have it! My car is a 75 with a 74 grille in it, but mine also still has the 75 bumper. No one has ever noticed, but it bugs ME. I'll be in Cleveland in June for an event with the car... We could swap them out? UPS would work too! Send an email to shotgunbluesbrotherhood(at)gmail.com Read more: bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=owners&thread=83&page=3#ixzz2TTzzKQbA
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