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Post by spanks79 on Jun 16, 2012 20:01:37 GMT -5
We have paint! Shiny white paint! The last one shows a mock up of where to make the break between white and black on the quarter. That is just about 1 inch. It seems a bit low, I might move it up a 1/4 inch. Opinions?
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Post by ti4438 on Jun 16, 2012 21:31:12 GMT -5
The bottome edge of the tape seems about right.
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Post by spanks79 on Jun 16, 2012 22:31:19 GMT -5
Thanks for the input Ti. So you think the bottom edge of the blue fine line tape is good? Or do you mean the bottom of the 3/4" masking tape?
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Post by sigmfsk on Jun 17, 2012 7:17:36 GMT -5
It seems a bit low, I might move it up a 1/4 inch. Opinions? If I understand correctly, you have: 3/4" masking tape 1/4" blue fine-line tape So that the bottom of the blue fine-line tape is the same location as the bottom edge of this chrome strip: from bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=screen&thread=702&post=4326Any drop from 0" to 1.0" seems screen accurate. But 0" seems curvy and weird: I think anywhere in the chrome strip area would be a good line (drop of 3/8" to 1.0"), with my personal preference being towards the top of the chrome strip (3/8" drop). At least I'm guessing that's what my personal preference would be if I saw a bunch of cars painted at various drop levels and got to pick my favorite.
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Post by ti4438 on Jun 17, 2012 10:41:21 GMT -5
I was thinking the bottom edge of the yellow tape.In some cases the part of the door that cuts into the C pillar? is very prominant.That's how I painted mine.
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Post by Mr Mercer on Jun 17, 2012 17:37:06 GMT -5
I just left my chrome trim on for the divider . Attachments:
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Post by countrybunker on Jun 17, 2012 21:56:15 GMT -5
Looking good spanks!
How good of shape was the filler in between the body seems on the c pillar? Mine was/still is crappy. Being a vynal top car looks like they got it just good enough to hide with the vynal.
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Jun 18, 2012 16:04:08 GMT -5
Firewall got sanded, some epoxy primer and single stage gloss black. We also fixed up some crusty stuff on the cowl before paint. How did you get anything done in the cowl, did you sand blasted it or open it with an angle grider and welded it back together? I tried with sand paper, but my hand needs and extra joint to do it with that.
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Post by spanks79 on Jun 18, 2012 21:23:17 GMT -5
Well we retaped the c pillar line at 3/4" down instead of 1". It looks just about right to me at 3/4", I think that is where I will leave it.
We are getting ready to spray the jambs soon, I'll post pics then.
On a sad note, I found out that the quarter extensions that came on the white car got stolen by some low life scrapers along with my 8.25 rear brake drums. I sure hope the $5 they got for them at the scrap yard was worth the destruction of valuable parts...bastards. Id have given them $20 to get them back. I guess the good thing is I didn't loose anything I really needed, I still have the extensions on my other car.
Country, the c pillar to roof filler was a mess. It looks perfect now, hopefully it won't come back!
Sd, luckily the cowl was not too rusty. There was one rust hole that was repaired from inside the car. We did not sand blast any of the body, that would have been best, but the body was it pretty good shape. Most of the rust was only surface rust. So in the intrest of time and money we opted not to blast the whole thing. Plus this car will be nice, but i dont want it to be too nice. Basically, we used por15 on anything that could not be easily ground out or sanded. I would look into por15 and spray it into the cowl area. I have to admit, it is a bit easier to get your hand in there when you can just stand right where the engine would be sitting and there is no hood in the way.
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Post by Ghostbluesman (Ghostsoldier) on Jul 13, 2012 23:43:11 GMT -5
Niiiiice, Spanks....I'm mesmerized by your build! Rob
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Post by Steam McQueen on Aug 13, 2012 14:10:26 GMT -5
How are things going, Spanks?
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Post by Ghostbluesman (Ghostsoldier) on Aug 13, 2012 15:18:44 GMT -5
Yeah....what Steam said!? Rob
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Post by ti4438 on Aug 13, 2012 16:34:46 GMT -5
This car is gonna be a beauty.
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Post by spanks79 on Aug 13, 2012 21:43:26 GMT -5
I'm here!
I check in every day to see what is going on here.
I apologize for the lack of updates. The car is moving along however slightly slower than I would like. Work has been busy, the weather hot, and my funds have been wearing a bit thin.
I know I need to get some pics up on here but for now this is where I stand. The body work and paint on the body shell is basically done, the sub frame is all welded up sand blasted and painted, front end suspension parts are blasted and painted new bushings installed, I even started taking some parts off of the original NC car. I have some customer cars in the shop right now, once those are gone the sub frame will be moved in and all the suspension and brakes hung on to get it ready to be rolled under the body.
I found some new motivation this weeken when I was at a car show and chatting with a guy that had a early 70's Charger with a 440. I was asking about his engine build and I mentioned that I was building a Monaco, he assumed it was a 60's car. When I told him it was a '74 he paused and looked at me briefly and said "wait.....your building a Bluesmobile"
I really need to figure out what gear ratio I want to run in the rear end because I need to get the rear axle built so this thing can be a roller. I was thinking 3.55 with a GV overdrive to be installed latter in phase two of the build, but I'm starting to thing I should go with 3.23. I am also starting to rethink the use of headers. I really want to keep the sound of the car true to the movie, headers may ruin that. This guy nailed it
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Post by Lord Vadus on Aug 14, 2012 0:19:01 GMT -5
I'm at that same crossroads, myself. Headers for the '74 Monaco are difficult to find and install due to the torsion bar setup. I was going to go with headers, as I had a nice set for a C-Body car, but it wouldn't clear the aforementioned bars. Now, I may just have to rework the stock '77 headers by polishing them and crafting an exhaust to fit them. If I don't like it, I can always switch to headers in the near-future.
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