swap odometer wheels / change odometer reading
Oct 9, 2011 19:06:33 GMT -5
Post by sigmfsk on Oct 9, 2011 19:06:33 GMT -5
I went through my odometer stash looking for the most unfaded used odometer wheel assembly. It was on a unit with a broken speedo, so it was an easy decision to steal that assembly.
I believe that whatever speedo one had (200kph, 160kph, 140mph, 120mph, 100mph), it was driven at 1000rpm = 60mph.
This article:
www.underridenetwork.org/SafetyArticles/SkidmarksofaDifferentSort.aspx
says 100rpm = 60mph, but everything else, including this great mopar speedo repair document:
www.tidewatermoparclub.com/TECH/odo3c.pdf
says 1000rpm = 60mph.
That PDF referenced above is a great resource and got me going into my speedo wheel swapping. To change the odometer reading, you remove the wheel set, manipulate it to the desired setting, then re-install the wheel set.
So the odometer wheels and gearing are the same for all 74-77 c-body monacos; it's that they adjusted the magnetism of the bell differently for different speedos (info at that same link above).
It would be difficult to swap individual wheels (for example, to swap a red tenths digit), but it's straightforward to swap the entire wheel assembly.
pic 1 : showing the broken plastic piece
pic 2 : what it should look like
pic 3 : showing how the notches must mate with the frame, and the ultraviolet ink pad
The ink pad is used to permanently mark the 10,000 digit wheel so that if someone rolled back the odometer, it could be detected under ultraviolet light. I could not detect any ultraviolet markings on any odometer wheels, but I could see where the black paint on the wheel was worn off after having the pad rest on it for years (see pic 6)
pic 4 : underside showing other angle where notches must mate with frame
pic 5 : showing the bracket that was used on early model odometers, and later not used
pic 6 : showing the clip that holds the odometer wheel assembly in place, and showing the disfigurement of the 10,000 wheel due to ink pad resting on it.
pic 7 : showing odometer wheel on the way out
pic 8 : comparison of the wheels.
I cleaned the "faded" unit, and it had no effect. I was thinking of trying to bleach it, but after reading this page
Vintage Computing and Gaming | Archive Why Super Nintendos Lose Their Color: Plastic Discoloration in Classic Machines
I gave up on that plan. I think the easiest way of getting an ultra-white bluesmobile odometer wheel assembly would be to find a NOS civilian unit - but it would have to be a factory unit and not a replacement unit that had a red tenths digit.
pics 9 and 10. I pushed the inkpad out of the way so it wouldn't do any damage to the wheel assembly.
pic 11: top - bluesmobile. middle - yesterday's odometer wheel. bottom - today's odometer wheel.
your friend in wheelin',
arthur
mostly from archived info here:
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/topic/8327-theres-a-new-marin-county-sheriff-in-town/page__view__findpost__p__120826
I believe that whatever speedo one had (200kph, 160kph, 140mph, 120mph, 100mph), it was driven at 1000rpm = 60mph.
This article:
www.underridenetwork.org/SafetyArticles/SkidmarksofaDifferentSort.aspx
says 100rpm = 60mph, but everything else, including this great mopar speedo repair document:
www.tidewatermoparclub.com/TECH/odo3c.pdf
says 1000rpm = 60mph.
That PDF referenced above is a great resource and got me going into my speedo wheel swapping. To change the odometer reading, you remove the wheel set, manipulate it to the desired setting, then re-install the wheel set.
So the odometer wheels and gearing are the same for all 74-77 c-body monacos; it's that they adjusted the magnetism of the bell differently for different speedos (info at that same link above).
It would be difficult to swap individual wheels (for example, to swap a red tenths digit), but it's straightforward to swap the entire wheel assembly.
pic 1 : showing the broken plastic piece
pic 2 : what it should look like
pic 3 : showing how the notches must mate with the frame, and the ultraviolet ink pad
The ink pad is used to permanently mark the 10,000 digit wheel so that if someone rolled back the odometer, it could be detected under ultraviolet light. I could not detect any ultraviolet markings on any odometer wheels, but I could see where the black paint on the wheel was worn off after having the pad rest on it for years (see pic 6)
pic 4 : underside showing other angle where notches must mate with frame
pic 5 : showing the bracket that was used on early model odometers, and later not used
pic 6 : showing the clip that holds the odometer wheel assembly in place, and showing the disfigurement of the 10,000 wheel due to ink pad resting on it.
pic 7 : showing odometer wheel on the way out
pic 8 : comparison of the wheels.
I cleaned the "faded" unit, and it had no effect. I was thinking of trying to bleach it, but after reading this page
Vintage Computing and Gaming | Archive Why Super Nintendos Lose Their Color: Plastic Discoloration in Classic Machines
I gave up on that plan. I think the easiest way of getting an ultra-white bluesmobile odometer wheel assembly would be to find a NOS civilian unit - but it would have to be a factory unit and not a replacement unit that had a red tenths digit.
pics 9 and 10. I pushed the inkpad out of the way so it wouldn't do any damage to the wheel assembly.
pic 11: top - bluesmobile. middle - yesterday's odometer wheel. bottom - today's odometer wheel.
your friend in wheelin',
arthur
mostly from archived info here:
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/topic/8327-theres-a-new-marin-county-sheriff-in-town/page__view__findpost__p__120826
