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Post by legendaryacura8 on Jan 11, 2012 20:04:42 GMT -5
Just a question. As we all know, the 74 Monaco was "the year before catalytic converters", and all other types of emissions equipment for that matter. my question is, how do you go about removing all of the emissions equipment fomr a 75+ Monaco to make it run the way Ma Mopar intended before the pesky government got all up in her business? Is there any complete listing of all the parts that need to come off? And will taking these off effect the engine in a negative way if it was designed with these parts in mind? Thanks for any info.
-Bryce
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Post by sigmfsk on Jan 12, 2012 4:42:50 GMT -5
how do you go about removing all of the emissions equipment fomr a 75+ Monaco to make it run the way Ma Mopar intended before the pesky government got all up in her business? Hi L8: I don't think it's as simple as you're hoping. There are some parts that are "add on", but some of the emission modifications are an integral part of the motor construction. The 1974 service manual, section 25-1 EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM, says:  And that's the 74 manual. The 77 manual has more sections to that chapter. You could get a 1974 manual, and a 1977 manual, and try and compare the two emission chapters. I think it would be somewhat interesting reading, but I don't think you'd be able to generate a list of parts you could remove to turn a 1977 into a 1974 (emission-wise). If you want to be able to easily pass emissions in CA, have a 1975 or earlier car; I'm all with you on that one. If you want a smooth running motor, then I'd just shoot for that. Just put the 1977 motor in as-is. You could remove the easy add-on parts (like a smog pump). You might even change relatively simple things (like lean burn electronic ignition to regular electronic). The 1977 440-block is as good as a 1974 440-block. But the entire 1977 high performance 440 motor from the factory is arguably not as good as an entire 1974 high performance 440 motor from the factory (because of the parts - such as 1977 having a cast crank, while 1974 had a forged crank). So if you want a screamer, and you have a 1977 donor motor, then you could do like LV is doing - rebuild the 1977 motor, using specific parts. bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=owners&thread=56&post=2650your friend in blumo planning, arthur |
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Post by legendaryacura8 on Jan 12, 2012 15:26:14 GMT -5
So, if I'm eventually going to drop a 440 into her, how far back do I have to go to get full power with no emission restrictions? I don't have to worry about emissions with a '75 as is...
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Post by sigmfsk on Jan 12, 2012 17:28:08 GMT -5
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Post by spanks79 on Jan 12, 2012 21:31:52 GMT -5
If you plan on replacing the engine with a 440 and you are sure you have no emissions restrictions then you can pretty much strip everything out with the old engine. I plan on doing something similar to this myself. My plans were to build a 440 using a head / cam / intake set up from a source like edelbrock, use a stock electronic ignition, dual exhaust possibly with headers (I have not checked into what is available for c-body's yet). Then either use a Holley carb with an electronic choke or possible even a bolt on EFI system. I realize a set up like this can cost some bucks but it will be a pretty serious ground pounder when done. If you want to drop in a stock 440, just get what you can find, look onto a mild camshaf if you want, maybe a fresh timing set, rebuild the stock thermo quad, clean it up with fresh gaskets (intake, valve covers, oil pan....) then paint it with some spray paint and drop it in. Have the local muffler shop fab some dual exhaust and off you go.
In the mean time, I would not worry too much about specific emissions components as other than the converter on a 75 there isn't much to remove. The later cars had the lean burn, but you are not going to end up with one of those since you want a 75 or older car. I am in the auto repair buisness and in my experience I have seen people screw up more by hap hazardly messing around with distributors, carbs thinking they are improving something. In stock trim, factory settings and components generally provide the best drive ability ans performance.
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Post by legendaryacura8 on Jan 13, 2012 1:07:02 GMT -5
Thanks for the insight! Definitely a good starting point for my future build!
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