this is a collection of pics and info from BBC Marin County and other threads, along with some new pics
Here's my 440 with intake removed:
and clearance to hood:
I'm looking for fuel injection, and the only way to get a lot of unobstructed air to the intake (without changing the hood) seemed to be to use an intake something like one of the following:
and then have the intake going straight forward over the radiator, like these:
and then end at an air cleaner like one of these:
On the left:
Spectre 889605:
6" I.D. Inlet, 7.18" Base Tapers To 4.13" O.D., 10.55" Overall Height
on the right:
S&B R0944:
6" I.D. Inlet, 7.50" Base Tapers to 5.25" O.D., 13.75" Overall Height
then neck it down to 4" like this:
in the location in blue:
Originally I was thinking of going around the radiator, but over the top seems best. I decided to use the S&B filter. It's larger, and has filtration on the end.
I placed an order in with John Marcella. But after the 4-month lead-time wait was over, he didn't return my calls or e-mails. Bummer. So I started looking at other options.
Indy makes this tunnel ram intake:
So I decided to use it as a foundation for conversion into a forward mounted throttle-body EFI intake.
Here it is under the hood, using the clearance values I measured on the car:
I'm planning using a 40550 March Pulley set with A/C, power steering, alternator, water pump, and crank serpentine pulleys. But I'm not planning on using the Chrysler alternator with the March serpentine pulley. Instead I'm planning on using a GM AD230 alternator which already has a serpentine pulley installed that accepts the same serpentine belt.
Here the stock alternator:
and AD230
and front view:
for A/C I see that the compressor would interfere with the throttle body (if the throttle body was mounted on the centerline of the intake).
The Sanden compresser can be clocked in the March pulley set in 3 of the 4 possible positions (with the fittings pointing in any direction but down):
Pointing to the passenger side would interfere with the throttle body. And straight up hits the hood. I'll point to the driver side and them have the entire length of the engine compartment to move them over to the passenger side firewall.
I did a mockup with the motor guys:
The IAC connector and throttle linkage must clear the distributor.
The TPS must clear the A/C compressor.
The air pipe to the throttle body must clear the A/C belt.
No way will the throttle body clear a thermostat housing.
The blue instapak shows the clearance to the hood. I think we'll be able to fit it under, although I may need to scallop the brace just forward of the intake (and add other braces around it).
The only serious problem was the water pump radiator hose exit. There's just no clearance for a thermostat housing / radiator hose exit between the water pump housing and the throttle body.
Check out this pic that I showed earlier:
It's using "reverse cooling"
from
www.horsepowerjunkies.com/forums/showpost.php?p=678296&postcount=79I don't know much about reverse cooling.
> There are several ways to reverse cool on a BB Mopar. Using the
> Meziere pump is one clean way to do it. You'll have dual hot
> water hoses to deal with but that can be handled with a custom
> radiator that has two inlets. No thermostat with this setup but a
> drag car usually doesn't need one anyway, you can just leave the
> pump off until the water gets warm and then turn it on.
www.bigblockdart.com/forum/showthread.php?9719-Reverse-flow-cooling-system&p=94437&viewfull=1#post94437I see this reverse cooling water pump:
Water Pump, Electric, 35-37 gpm, Billet Aluminum, Red Anodized, Mopar, Big Block/Hemi, Reverse Flow, Each
www.summitracing.com/parts/CSI-902REV/?rtype=10But clearly that doesn't help me. It has the thermostat in the same place, and I lose the pulley needed for the serpentine belts.
I'm thinking the easiest thing to do is simply modify the water pump housing to cut off the thermostat housing mount, and weld on an aluminum neck that would exit the radiator hose to the driver side, as indicated in the pic above.
I'll be getting a custom radiator for:
- crossflow
- lower height of cores to allow air intake to travel over the top
- to include power steering cooler
- to include engine oil cooler
- to include transmission oil cooler
so adding
- dual pass (so upper and lower radiator hoses are on driver side)
will easily fit in the customization plan.
I think I'll need two end tanks that are each much higher than the cores
- passenger side so that the radiator cap on it will be the highest point in the cooling system (instead of the water pump).
- driver side so that it can include an added-on remote thermostat housing. Water exits the water pump housing, goes through the welded aluminum neck, to flexible rubber hose, to radiator remote thermostat area. When thermostat is closed, coolant doesn't flow into radiator. When opened, coolant flows. I'm just moving the thermostat from directly above the water pump to directly before the radiator.
I'm looking at C&R for this effort:
www.crracing.com/radiators/custom-built-radiatorsbut I won't be calling them until I have a car with a motor in it so I can see how things look.
Please comment on any thoughts or concepts!
thanks,
arthur