dye vinyl with SEM color coat
Oct 6, 2011 16:44:38 GMT -5
Post by sigmfsk on Oct 6, 2011 16:44:38 GMT -5
While looking how to paint flexible plastic, vinyl, and metal, I found that the SEM instructions are sometimes different on the can vs. their manual.
Regarding finishing vinyl, the manual says:
> 2. Clean with 3834() VINYL PREP using a clean lint free towel and wiping in one
> direction. Or, apply 38464 WORLD CLASS VINYL/PLASTIC PREP and scrub with a clean
> gray scuff pad. Rinse 38464 with water and dry. If contamination still exists after
> cleaning, water will bead on the surface. Repeat until beading no longer occurs.
Notice that it says to only Rinse 38464 with water, not 3834().
But the instructions on the can of 38343 say to also rinse 38343 with water.
> Spray surface to be coated and wipe thoroughly with a sponge and cloth. Excessive
> rubbing is not necessary. Rinse with water and allow to dry. Where multiple coats of
> wax are present, use VINYL PREP liberally and rinse well, repeating process until water
> no longer "BEADS" on the surface.
In the end, I decided that the rinsing 38343 or 38464 with water was not a critical step - other than it provided information on how clean the part was (based on water beading status). The bottle of 38464 says
> 38464 DOES NOT LEAVE A RESIDUE
and this site:
www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/02/ProjectMXInterior/
says
> SEM Plastic Prep (PN 38354) is designed specifically for hard to remove oil and dirt. The
> product leaves no residue so rinsing is not necessary.
Notice the ending part digit. SEM says 3835() for any delivery vehicle of 3835(). 38353 is a spray can. 38354 is a liquid in a plastic bottle. I used a spray can when available (38464 doesn't have a spray can equivalent).
I guess it helped ease my concern over slightly different instructions when I read illegal tense constructions such as this in the 38343 can:
> This fine product not only cleans soils, wax and grease from the surface, but also
> created[sic] a slight softening of the vinyl film and prepares the surface for coating
> such as with SEM's COLOR COAT.
I just needed to read everything several times and make sure I was following the process.
I completed painting vinyl & metal:
Here are the steps I followed for vinyl:
1) clean with hot soapy water and a sponge
2) clean with 39362 SEM SOAP and a toothbrush
3) clean with 39362 SEM SOAP and a gray scuff pad. Scrub thoroughly, rinse with water and dry.
5) clean with 38343 VINYL PREP using a clean lint free towel and wiping on one direction.
[Note: wiping in one direction will remove contaminants from the surface, rather than smearing the contaminants around]
All the parts but the upper door panels had a clean towel after wiping - except for the upper door panels. With these, I always got some green goo on the towel when wiping.
I tested the parts by putting some water on them. All the parts wouldn't bead - except for the upper door panels.
I resprayed and wiped the upper door panels several times, and always got green on the towel, and water always beaded. I almost used an entire can of 38343 just on the upper door panels. Eventually I decided that I needed stronger actions, and "38464 with a gray scuff pad" seemed like it might put the superscrub on those panels.
6) On all parts, I then applied 38464 WORLD CLASS VINYL / PLASTIC PREP and scrubbed with a clean gray scuff pad.
The application created a lot of green dirty soap on the panels, and after wiping, none of the parts beaded water. One last time
7) On all parts, I then applied 38343 VINYL PREP using a clean lint free towel and wiping on one direction.
No water rinse.
[Note: I performed steps 6 and 7 while wearing latex gloves to ensure that I didn't get any finger oil on the parts between wiping them down and hanging them for paint]
8 ) Apply top coat (COLOR COAT)
I waited about 7 minutes between coats. I used a "bandit" respirator.
I'm really happy how the vinyl appears to have turned out. Before painting, I wanted to remove the metal strip from the upper door panel, so that I could best paint all the vinyl, but I was afraid that if I bent the tabs and removed it, I'd never get it back into position (because the tabs would break, or it would be loose upon reinstallation). So I spent a lot of time prepping and taping the piece so that the tape perfectly followed the metal/vinyl dividing line.
Info mainly from here:
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/topic/8327-theres-a-new-marin-county-sheriff-in-town/page__view__findpost__p__112288
Regarding finishing vinyl, the manual says:
> 2. Clean with 3834() VINYL PREP using a clean lint free towel and wiping in one
> direction. Or, apply 38464 WORLD CLASS VINYL/PLASTIC PREP and scrub with a clean
> gray scuff pad. Rinse 38464 with water and dry. If contamination still exists after
> cleaning, water will bead on the surface. Repeat until beading no longer occurs.
Notice that it says to only Rinse 38464 with water, not 3834().
But the instructions on the can of 38343 say to also rinse 38343 with water.
> Spray surface to be coated and wipe thoroughly with a sponge and cloth. Excessive
> rubbing is not necessary. Rinse with water and allow to dry. Where multiple coats of
> wax are present, use VINYL PREP liberally and rinse well, repeating process until water
> no longer "BEADS" on the surface.
In the end, I decided that the rinsing 38343 or 38464 with water was not a critical step - other than it provided information on how clean the part was (based on water beading status). The bottle of 38464 says
> 38464 DOES NOT LEAVE A RESIDUE
and this site:
www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/02/ProjectMXInterior/
says
> SEM Plastic Prep (PN 38354) is designed specifically for hard to remove oil and dirt. The
> product leaves no residue so rinsing is not necessary.
Notice the ending part digit. SEM says 3835() for any delivery vehicle of 3835(). 38353 is a spray can. 38354 is a liquid in a plastic bottle. I used a spray can when available (38464 doesn't have a spray can equivalent).
I guess it helped ease my concern over slightly different instructions when I read illegal tense constructions such as this in the 38343 can:
> This fine product not only cleans soils, wax and grease from the surface, but also
> created[sic] a slight softening of the vinyl film and prepares the surface for coating
> such as with SEM's COLOR COAT.
I just needed to read everything several times and make sure I was following the process.
I completed painting vinyl & metal:
Here are the steps I followed for vinyl:
1) clean with hot soapy water and a sponge
2) clean with 39362 SEM SOAP and a toothbrush
3) clean with 39362 SEM SOAP and a gray scuff pad. Scrub thoroughly, rinse with water and dry.
5) clean with 38343 VINYL PREP using a clean lint free towel and wiping on one direction.
[Note: wiping in one direction will remove contaminants from the surface, rather than smearing the contaminants around]
All the parts but the upper door panels had a clean towel after wiping - except for the upper door panels. With these, I always got some green goo on the towel when wiping.
I tested the parts by putting some water on them. All the parts wouldn't bead - except for the upper door panels.
I resprayed and wiped the upper door panels several times, and always got green on the towel, and water always beaded. I almost used an entire can of 38343 just on the upper door panels. Eventually I decided that I needed stronger actions, and "38464 with a gray scuff pad" seemed like it might put the superscrub on those panels.
6) On all parts, I then applied 38464 WORLD CLASS VINYL / PLASTIC PREP and scrubbed with a clean gray scuff pad.
The application created a lot of green dirty soap on the panels, and after wiping, none of the parts beaded water. One last time
7) On all parts, I then applied 38343 VINYL PREP using a clean lint free towel and wiping on one direction.
No water rinse.
[Note: I performed steps 6 and 7 while wearing latex gloves to ensure that I didn't get any finger oil on the parts between wiping them down and hanging them for paint]
8 ) Apply top coat (COLOR COAT)
I waited about 7 minutes between coats. I used a "bandit" respirator.
I'm really happy how the vinyl appears to have turned out. Before painting, I wanted to remove the metal strip from the upper door panel, so that I could best paint all the vinyl, but I was afraid that if I bent the tabs and removed it, I'd never get it back into position (because the tabs would break, or it would be loose upon reinstallation). So I spent a lot of time prepping and taping the piece so that the tape perfectly followed the metal/vinyl dividing line.
Info mainly from here:
www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/topic/8327-theres-a-new-marin-county-sheriff-in-town/page__view__findpost__p__112288