Oil/temp gauge info

[countrybunker]

Hey guys,

Alright, I know arthur had the info up on bbc.. But yea.. lol Im wondering if someone can point me in the right direction to get my oil/temp gauge working? Anyone have a wiring diagram? How about what kind of sensors to get for the gauge?



Any info appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
-zac

[tk826]

I haven't installed mine yet, because I remember Huey telling me that
it requires the trailer wiring harness.

I did keep all of sig's notes from BBC.
I can post them... if he didn't keep them himself.


On the same note:

I have a spare (2nd) oil/temp gauge for sale... if anyone is looking.

[countrybunker]

Not to go over arthur.. But could you post em?? lol

I remember someone telling me that I could get the sensors for the gauge from any local autozone/carquest. Could get em tonight before they close. Im not sure about the trailer harnsee.. Hopefully it can be bypassed!

Im thinking you just run a gorund for each side of the terminals, then run the hot wire right to the sensor?? I dont wanna hurt the gauges though..

[sigmfsk]

TK please feel free to post my notes from BBC. I have those oil pressure/water temperature notes somewhere, that even list all the exact part numbers for all the senders.

But I'm standing firm and trying not to re-invent the wheel and retype/repost everything I did on BBC. At least for now. Steam got this board rolling so we could chat about new stuff. And I still have hopes that BBC comes alive and we'll have ongoing access to all our old cool info.

Half the reason I posted to BBC (and now this board) is so that I don't have to find all my notes. If BBC doesn't come alive, I'll eventually try and repost stuff like the oil pressure / water temp stuff, but for now, I'm too peeved to redo it.

your friend in minimal peeveness,
arthur

[sigmfsk]

> ...it requires the trailer wiring harness.

Marin County didn't have the trailer harness. It piggybacked off the instrument cluster voltage limited 5V power source.

> Im thinking you just run a gorund for each side of the terminals,
> then run the hot wire right to the sensor??
Well, in a word, no. On the oil pressure / water temp wiring thread on BBC I provide a description of the wiring connections for each terminal. I don't think that info is in the text file I have, so hopefully BBC will be back on-line soon, or TK826 will have the info.

May the force of patience be with us. My entire suspension effort is on hold waiting for access to my posts on BBC.
arthur

[tk826]

The Oil/ Temp gauge is
PART NUMBER: 3592655




This shows the wiring harness that connects to the right circuit board connector on the back of the speedometer cluster
(right when looking at the front of the cluster, left when looking at the back of the cluster).

Notice the loose pink wire.
In a wiring harness without the oil temp / water temp gauge, this wire would connect to the central hub,
in the opening on the right, next to the light blue/dark blue striped wire.

In this case it was removed from the harness and used as part of the water temperature gauge circuit.




Excluding the illumination wiring (orange/ black wire), the gauge back has four connections.
While looking at the back, they are labeled (starting at upper left and proceeding clockwise):

violet, gray, black, black.

Violet goes to the water temperature gauge.
Gray goes to the oil pressure gauge
Black and black are the same connection and go to the 2209216 IVR4 voltage limiter on the back of the
instrument cluster.

Note:
As you can see, the Violet and one of the Black wires have incorrectly switched places.

* The limiter is designed to provide 5V to the gauges.

The limiter just plugs into the back of the instrument cluster.
The black & black wire terminal just rests next to one of the prongs on the limiter and the
limiter and the terminal slide into the instrument cluster together.



This is the terminal from the black and black wire that rests next to the prong of the limiter.



This is the prong on the voltage limiter where the terminal, from the black and black wire, will slide in against.
(it is pointed to by the screwdriver)



Shown from left to right:

Original voltage limiter
solid-state voltage limiter
Switch - Oil Pressure With (idiot) Light 1 PS-11X
Sender - Oil Pressure With Gauge 1 PS-59
Sender - Temperature With Gauge 1 TS-17
Sender - Temperature With (idiot) Light 1 TS-124

- A couple places to find new senders, for the oil pressure & water temperature gauges, are here:

www.standardbrand.com

www.rockauto.com
------------------------------------------------------------------


* To make things a little more complicated,
(and something I haven't quite figured out yet), here is another shot of one of the gauges I have...



It appears that the harness, on this gauge, has a slightly different configuration of wires, than the one shown in the second photo above.

.
.

[countrybunker]

Awesome info TK!! Thank you!!!

Alright question time..

Ive got the bezal outa the car, Ive also got the oil/temp gauge outa the car. I really dont wanna pull the whole cluster out, and break the pins. I can reach up from behind the dash, and grab the limiter, and pull it out. (I havnt pulled it out yet, but loosened it.)

when you say the black, and black wire terminal rests next to the prong going into the back of the cluster, do you mean I just have to rest the terminal from the black wires next to it, or it actually has to go in the hole with the prong from the limiter? I might be able to get it accompleshed either way.. Just afraid to pull it all the way out and not be able to line up the holes again lol..

Thanks!
-zac

[countrybunker]

Also on the senders...

Where at on the motor should they go? 360 small block.. Im pretty sure the temp sender is on the left side of the motor (when looking at it from front of car) right behind the a/c compressor. How about the oil one?

[sigmfsk]

Aug 13, 2011 13:29:53 GMT -5 countrybunker said:

when you say the black, and black wire terminal rests next to the prong going into the back of the cluster, do you mean I just have to rest the terminal from the black wires next to it, or it actually has to go in the hole with the prong from the limiter?

The latter. You remove the limiter, position the oil press/water temp prong next to the prong on the limiter, and slide both of them into the instrument cluster at the same time.



You could achieve the same result different ways, but that seems to be the easiest method to tap into the circuit.

your friend in archived info!
/arthur

[countrybunker]

Thanks arthur! Thats what I figured, but just wanted to make sure..

And thank you again TK! I believe Ive got all the parts needed now. Luckily autozone had the senders in stock.



I got the limiter out, just gotta get the wire, and connector in there now. Will let you know how this turns out! lol

thanks again!
-zac

[sigmfsk]

Something to consider is that if the stock limiter fails, it can destroy all the gauges connected to it (oil press, water temp, fuel, ammeter).

You can easily replace it with a solid-state version.

Here's a do-it-yourself page:
www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

I bought mine from here:
rt-eng.com/mediawiki/index.php/Dash-Worx_ABlimiter

It's second from the left in the pic of the senders.

It seems that the stock limiter has worked fine on many cars for many years, but I figure that $50 for a limiter was good insurance as original oil press / water temp gauges are hard to find.

your friend in throwing out ideas,
arthur

[countrybunker]

I had thought about getting another limiter.. But $$ wont allow it at the moment. Autozone had one for $37. Dont think it was a solid-state one though, just a stock replacement.. Im gonna go with the old adage for the moment, "if it aint broke dont fix it" lol.

thanks again guys for all the info!

It lives!! lol



Was pretty easy to do. Im just glad I was able to do it without taking the cluster out!! lol Ive got it all wired up just like the pics provided. Ive got the black/black wires going into the terminal for the limiter. Im gonna miss my idiot lights.. But Ive got a nice gauge to look at instead lol. Took a few hours to get it in. Longest part was routing the wiring.

first time Ive seen any readings off of this motor. Has great oil pressure. I took it out for a quick drive around town, the temp needle never really went over the first line. Ill get better readings tomarrow, should be taking her for a lil cruise to a show, if the rain will hold out!

-zac

[Mr Mercer]

Part 1
I bought a sold state limiter of ebay , but should of bought the one Arthur posted a link too . His looked like it was the real deal , where mine works slow and the same as the original .
But where Zac slid his black wire connector in with the limiter , I could not get it done that way .
Drilled a small hole into that pin and soldered the wire to it instead .

[Mr Mercer]

Part 2
Well put the sensor's in and kept the original water temp/light in its spot , just put the water temp/gauge in a unused vacuum switch spot above the original water temp sensor .
For the oil pressure sender I would like to put a tee so there's a oil light and gauge sensor . But only the gauge right now .
The oil gauge slowly goes up to the max and back to around to 60 psi when hot , and the water temp seems a little on the low side compared to my manual gauge under it . There sensors are a inch apart on the block . The factory gauge moves up and down in the normal range compared to the manual gauge staying steady . But the factory temp gauge goes higher at highway speeds where the manual one stays the same .
Ill try another oil sender to see if its the gauge itself .
Hooked up my replacement factory fuel gauge and still doesn't work . So if anybody has one kicking around or a link to a new one , let me know .

[Lord Vadus]

I happen to have a spare fuel and alternator gauge, but I'd have to pull them out of the car. I just rebuilt two that include the LEDs and I want to use them in my Custom, so when I pull out the non-LED gauges, you're welcome to the fuel gauge, however, it's going to take me some time.