|
Post by scatpack on Aug 19, 2011 17:44:19 GMT -5
I got that 75 cluster off ebay but I don't think the voltage gauge is passing current thru. Since I swapped it it won't charge. The little red light in it and the fuel gauge stay lit. Can anyone help with this?
|
|
|
Post by sigmfsk on Aug 20, 2011 9:39:26 GMT -5
I got that 75 cluster off ebay but I don't think the voltage gauge is passing current thru. Since I swapped it it won't charge. The little red light in it and the fuel gauge stay lit. Can anyone help with this? Hi Scatpack. > I don't think the voltage gauge is passing current thru Do you mean the ammeter? > Since I swapped it it won't charge. I don't know if you mean the ammeter doesn't read charging, or the alternator is not charging the battery (or both). The ammeter has no effect on the actual charging; it's a shunt type ammeter (using vehicle wiring as a shunt) - I made a large post with more details on BBC. The gist is that you can remove the ammeter, and it would have no effect on the actual charging of the battery. > The little red light in it and the fuel gauge stay lit. Sounds like something is afoot. You can check the pinouts on both speedo clusters and ensure that the pins are the same (mechanically the 74/75 plugs and receptacles could be the same, but that doesn't mean they are wired the same). 74-77 fuel gauges are the same, and 74-75 ammeters are the same, so you can swap them between instrument clusters and see if that helps narrow down the problem. It doesn't look like your car has fender mounted turn signals. www.myspace.com/scatpacksreplicars/photos/4359463#{%22ImageId%22%3A4359506}If that is correct for 75 Dukes of Hazzard Monaco, and you're replacing your 74 instrument cluster with a 75 instrument cluster for DOH replication, then you likely don't want the LED indicators on the fuel gauge or ammeter (because they were only available with the fender mounted turn signal package). good luck with your investigation, arthur
|
|
|
Post by tk826 on Aug 20, 2011 10:24:32 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by scatpack on Aug 20, 2011 21:11:33 GMT -5
thanks Sig. I might swap my old cluster back in see if it makes a difference. Since it happend right after I swapped it I thought that was the culprit. Bu now that the trans is slipping I am not gonna worry too much about it. I ran a wire from the + side of the alt to the + side of the battery. Shouldn't that charge the battery?
|
|
|
Post by scatpack on Aug 20, 2011 21:12:11 GMT -5
I may grab that ammeter off ebay. Thanks tk
|
|
|
Post by 58hemifury on Aug 25, 2014 16:48:16 GMT -5
I have a problem with my dash lights, when you have thm turned up the green turn signal arrows light up with them and the blue high beam indicator glows with the low beams on, so does the red warning light on the AMPs gauge, and everything pulsates. With the dash lights turned all the way down the high beam indicator works normal and the light on the AMPs gauge goes out. Anyone ever experience anything like this? All of the outside lights are fine and work as they should. Could someone walk me thru removing the cluster so I don't break anything taking this thing apart. Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by 58hemifury on Oct 3, 2014 19:46:13 GMT -5
I took the dash apart and learned how much fun it is to try to hook up the speedo cable on these cars. I now have all of the dash lights working but lost my high beam indicator, door ajar light, and right turn signal indicator on the dash. I have to go back in there when I buy a gas gauge so I'll worry about it then. Is there a secret to getting to the back of these clusters that I'm missing? I can't even get close to being able to get to the bulbs on the back of this and I can't pull the light blue plastic housing out enough when it's unbolted. Also what holds the stock radio in other than the two bolt visible from the front?
|
|
|
Post by legendaryacura8 on Oct 4, 2014 13:43:09 GMT -5
I actually found the easiest way (besides taking the gauge cluster out) is to take off the metal tray with the speaker holes, and try to to reach down just under the windshield. If it's still too difficult you can always remove the dash pad. That's not too intensive of a job...
|
|
|
Post by 58hemifury on Oct 4, 2014 14:58:23 GMT -5
Thanks Legendary!
|
|
|
Post by countrybunker on Oct 4, 2014 17:42:13 GMT -5
Go in through the front, much easier. Like a 10 min job if that. Take the dash bezal off, then the clear housing over the speedo. Then reach up under the dash, and disconnect the cable. Now unbolt the speedo off the cluster, and pull away. Now have easy access to everything. There are little tabs in the sockets for the bulbs that like to break off. Get a small piece of wire or something, and sandwhich it in between the bulb and socket when screwing the bulb in. I've had too do a couple this way.
|
|
|
Post by 58hemifury on Oct 4, 2014 19:14:11 GMT -5
Thanks Country but my car has push in 194 bulbs and other than the 4 normal dash lights the other bulb are inaccessible from the front(turn signals, high beam indicator, ect.) Maybe '77s were a little different?
|
|
|
Post by countrybunker on Oct 5, 2014 8:42:52 GMT -5
I think they are the same setup. My bad my man, i was thinking about one of the 4 main lights with the tabs in em. You can't get a set of needle nose pliers for the peanut bulbs? Its been a long while since i messed with it. I do know i changed a ton of bulbs through the front though, including the small ones.
|
|
|
Post by 58hemifury on Oct 5, 2014 9:04:26 GMT -5
I think they are the same setup. My bad my man, i was thinking about one of the 4 main lights with the tabs in em. You can't get a set of needle nose pliers for the peanut bulbs? Its been a long while since i messed with it. I do know i changed a ton of bulbs through the front though, including the small ones. I'll try needle nose pliers when my gas gauge from ebay shows up, thanks Country.
|
|