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Post by sigmfsk on Apr 26, 2012 5:25:30 GMT -5
Nissan also uses the 5*4,5 pattern. Oh, yeah! from cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=230652786992&nma=true&rt=nc&si=O3GlvYmevwYpnYjoTcaOblaAyGA%253D&vxp=mtr&orig_cvip=true&rt=ncWe might be getting to the point where the front isn't a big deal, but how to mount in the rear. The RTLC manual www.racelogic.co.uk/images/stories/other-prod/Traction%20Control%20Manual%20v3_2.pdfsays > Some cars have a single sensor for the rear wheel speed that is > mounted on the differential e.g. Nissan 200SX and some older Mercedes > Benz. so for RLTC I might be able to use the transmission output shaft speed sensor (although a 3-sensor system isn't as good as a 4-sensor system). But for ABS I need a sensor on each rear wheel, so I'm back to needing an active encoder wheel for each rear wheel. That RLTC manual has a confusing statement > Ensure that the engine ECU does not utilise pulse width modulated > injector signals which control-limit the injector current, as this type > of signal is not compatible with the traction control. That statement seems ambiguous. Is it saying: 1) Ensure the ECU doesn't utilize PWM injector signals. or 2) It's OK for the ECU to utilize PWM for injector signals, as long as it doesn't do so to control-limit the injector current. I'd think it may be simply saying "can't use PWM", but here: forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-forced-induction-nitrous/2736210-racelogic-from-the-horses-mouth.htmlThe RLTC guy says that it works well with the Corvette ABS system, and the Corvette ECU uses PWM to drive injectors. But this page: www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=810158says that the LS7 uses PWM, and I'm guessing all LS motors use it. That page also says that the LS7 ECU has misfire detection, which is a definite RLTC no-no. So I sent the PWM question to the RLTC guys.
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Post by sigmfsk on Apr 28, 2012 3:41:50 GMT -5
Stage 1 of the Monaco Museum of Amazement display case complete: I think this turned out as well as I could have hoped. The length is just right - goes from floor to ceiling. The bottom cut is the right angle so that it just lightly rests against the wall (it naturally balances so that it doesn't pull away from the wall, nor rest against the wall so much that the bottom wants to pull out). I used the three holes previously drilled for the roof light to attach it solidly to a piece of plywood that I attached to the wall studs. My plan is to stretch two cables from each b-pillar to c-pillar, and then install glass shelves, like this: from arakawagrip.com/solutions/shelving----------------- I got my latest build beatdown. I posted this FAST XFI / RLTC compatibility question on "EFI university" www.efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7783So far 80 hits, no responses. I wrote the university sales manager asking if I signed up for their July 7th class, if I could get access to the forum for previous attendees, so that I could get a quick response. The sales manager forwarded my e-mail to the FAST XFI instructor. His response started out: > I think I have answered this question before on CPG nation. You will not > be able to use the XFI CAN data for other products than Race Pak or > FAST products. I sure hope that XFI CAN data will work with another product called "a CAN analyzer". Otherwise it isn't CAN data. I didn't get an answer to if its 11-bit CAN, 29-bit CAN, and he poo-pooed my idea for racelogic traction control when FAST XFI has traction control feature built-in. I responded saying I'm looking for autocross-style traction control, and not 1/4 mile traction control, and could I call him as I thought my questions would have simple answers once he knew my setup. No response. Based on this post from him: > The XFI CAN Bus is not new, although it isn't user configurable either. It > is a FAST only protocol at this point... > There is a Race Pak CAN output and the FAST CAN but neither is user > programmable. www.cpgnation.com/forum/new-xfi-can-bus-5181.html#post11455I believe he's saying: > FAST and Racepak have some type of working relationship where they > share their proprietary message formats and a FAST data logger can > display data from a Racepak sensor, and vice versa. But the message > IDs and meaning are not released to the public, and the FAST data > logger is not programmable to display user-defined message. Here's some info on the course: www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/engines/ghtp_1108_efi_tuning_school/viewall.htmlIt seems that this class could still be valuable, but I get enough build beatdown's without paying for one. I would have to sit there saying to myself "Don't actually ask any difficult questions or you'll get a beatdown. Sit here and learn the standard FAST XFI stuff. Pretend you are a 1/4 mile guy with a non-Monaco. You're sitting here for standard stuff." At least I'm doing better than this guy: > I have 35-40 parades and they are all getting rain... www.nobleforums.com/showthread.php?6757-Traction-Control-Systems&p=56262#post56262Being that FAST is not designed to have non-FAST compatible things on the same CAN bus, it seems best to have the FAST CAN bus isolated as they wish. And then have a second CAN bus with just the Bosch M4 wheelspeed being sent to RLTC. And then split the tach wire to go to both FAST XFI and RLTC. It seems that the tach wire can drive any number of devices correctly: > I called MSD and the Guy said..."you can run 3 things off the tach > wire."... mmb.maverick.to/showpost.php?s=5aa0243d6197bd321d08c9a96c260cf9&p=774237&postcount=9
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Post by sigmfsk on Apr 28, 2012 10:25:45 GMT -5
Ahh, it's a Saturday, the birds are tweeting, the roof is on the wall, time for some treadmilling while going through my stack of interesting things to scan. The following is from the April 2012 issue of Mopar Collector's Guide. It's a story about a car that had the word "Square" written on the inside of the car. I thought the part about the hidden whiskey bottle humorous. I think Steam said that he worked the factory line in 1968. May 2012 issue of Hot Rod, talks about Dynamat Extreme plus Dynaliner. I don't know what I'm going to do for insulation. This is something to consider. The April 2012 issue of Hot Rod talks about these QTP exhaust cutouts. www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php> Sizes range from 2.25", 2.5", 3", 3.5" and 4" and our popular Low-Profile > Oval Cutout kits. Hot Rod said: > The baseline numbers were 291 rwhp and 309 lb-ft. After opening the > cutouts, we saw 297 peak rwhp and 318 lb-ft...The performance gain is > not enough to notice in the seat of the pants...On the street, the > cutouts delivered big grins. For taking nephews on the Texas Mile, cutouts could enhance the experience. I'm thinking a guillotine-type cutout would provide a better seal than a butterfly type cutout: Doug's Headers DEC300A - Doug's Headers Electric Exhaust Cutout Kits Exhaust Cutouts, Electric, Stainless Steel, Bolt-On, 3.00 in. Diameter, Wiring Harness, Pair www.summitracing.com/parts/DOU-DEC300A/?rtype=10but again, something to worry about a long way down the road. The June 2012 issue of Hot Rod points out to have a flexible transmission mount, even when using solid motor mounts. I hadn't thought of that. Sounds like a good idea to me. That "Sick Fish" build book talks about ground clearance: > Primary metal fabricator for Sick Fish, Holohan, comments, "You start > from the ride height, four inches from the bottom of the rockers" Man, I'll be in highwater heaven with over 6" of clearance. They had some header issues: I'm going to have enough funny business with an enlarged transmission tunnel; I don't want to make it more obvious by taking away more room for headers. They safety wired them: which seems kinda cool, even though I don't think it's required for the Steam CEVS EVOC challenge. After seeing this pic of the 70 'cuda: it finally sunk in that a Cuda didn't have a fully removable subframe like the Monaco. It makes me think even more about putting in some down tubes. Here are some pics from "Idea Book: Street Machines" by Sue Elliott. I like the look of that car in the lower left. The book lists the credit "clockwise", but it's actually "counterclockwise". Some more pics from 1969 Chevy Camaro - Orange Crush Steve Broscoe's Road-Race-Styled '69 Camaro Has The Heart Of A Drag Car. Read more: www.popularhotrodding.com/features/0710_1969_chevy_camaro/viewall.html#ixzz1tLgh6GzuThat'll give me something meaty to tie the motor plate to, and it could come in handy for the coilover shock setup. It will be interesting to see what I.C. thinks.
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Post by sigmfsk on Apr 29, 2012 10:37:15 GMT -5
Some pics from "How to build a killer street machine" by Jefferson Bryant I'm liking this idea more and more. Interesting blurb on brake fluid. It doesn't mention that > DOT 5 brake fluid is not compatible with anti-lock brake systems. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_5The Bosch M4 ABS manual says: > The hydraulic power unit is prefilled with brake fluid. During assembly, > make sure as little brake fluid as possible is lost. It doesn't say what type of brake fluid. The street machine book also has a section on hydroboost and recommends it over a vacuum canister for those cars generating low vacuum.
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Post by Sd.Kfz. 400 on Apr 29, 2012 12:03:07 GMT -5
^I think my Mondeo's book says dot 4. I'd still use 5.1.
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Post by sigmfsk on May 1, 2012 20:24:10 GMT -5
I've been making progress with FAST XFI / RLTC / Bosch ABS compatibility. I'll wait until I get more together before posting. I've been making progress with getting a dry sump pan fabricated. I'll wait until I get more together before posting. I've been making progress on getting some pics of the Fury rear passenger trunk / wheel well area for Country Bunker. It's a little scary, Country. But if there's any portion of that sheet metal that helps you out, let me know, and I'll cut it out for you. And some exciting news is that the panel beaters called and said that they had all the sheet metal together, axle on, and are looking for some wheels and tires, steering column, and steering gear to make this thing a roller! I'm going to go see them tomorrow and take them some parts to put on: front seat rear seat bottom rear seat back steering column headlight plates (so that I.C. knows what real estate we have to work with for the air intake tube) interior a/c box and globey (for transmission tunnel fitting) engine compartment vent blower hydroboost & mounting plate interior brake pedal assembly windshield wiper motor and assembly This way I.C. has all the things on the firewall so that fitment of down-tubes can be assessed. The steering column has the wrong wheel on it, and it has the extra light by the hazard switch that needs to be removed, but it's all good enough for now. It's the column that I want to use in the blumo, and it will be with the car so if/when it needs to be modified for use with the rack, it will be there. That interior brake pedal assembly from the Fury looked better than Marin County. I think I'll send the rear seats, in case its decided to cut the floor pan higher for frame reinforcements (under the rear seat). Or another option is to cut the floor pan under the rear seat and make it a bit lower and store a sealed battery under the rear seat. I was looking at Mike Face's 70 Chevelle engine compartment: from www.chevyhiperformance.com/featuredvehicles/65158_1970_chevrolet_chevelle/photo_04.htmland saw those giant non-stock hood hinges. And then I thought about making the rear seat on some type of easy-to-open hinges. And then I could solidly mount all the electronics / CAN-bus equipment under the rear seat. That would make wiring a lot easier and compact. I may have: FAST XFI RLTC Bosch M4 Secret Audio I could put them under the front seat, and have them on a type of sliding tray for access, but solidly mounting under the rear seat might be an option. I love options. Here are the tires on my Marin County cop wheels (widened 1" to the inside) And the Fury is giving up it's steering gear too (just so that the car can steer with the standard steering setup until it gets to I.C.). That Fury is giving its all. your friend in looking forward to roller pics, arthur
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Post by spanks79 on May 1, 2012 20:33:19 GMT -5
Looking good. Are those the 255-60-15's mounted on those awesome wheels?
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Post by sigmfsk on May 1, 2012 20:50:28 GMT -5
Looking good. Are those the 255-60-15's mounted on those awesome wheels? 255/70s! I copy the following from Topic: tire analysis for high speed road racing Read more: bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=performance&action=display&thread=361#ixzz1tfjmTMWw-------------- This is my summary of how people seem to think various tire sizes look on a blumo: 225/70/15 27.402" tolerable 235/70/15 27.953" good 235/75/15 28.878" great So I'm looking for around a 28.9" diameter tire. ... 255/70R15 (29.1" diameter) : around-town driving 255/55R18 (29.0" diameter) : racing The diameter is almost the same as stock, but the tires will be an inch wider than stock. I like the plan to have the same width/diameter tires for around town as for racing (although the wheel diameter is different), because I'll have plenty of lead-time to see if anything rubs or if there are any problems. -------------- Here's how one of them looked when I took Marin County to the panel beaters: That's on an 8" wide wheel. I ended up changing my plan and will now use my cop wheels (now 7.5" wide). So if someone has a use for (2) 8" wide wheels, let me know. They're a tight fit up front (without a 1/4" spacer to move them away from the upper a-arms), but they could be used just on the rear when drag racing.
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Post by AZBlues on May 2, 2012 15:50:07 GMT -5
Great things are happening, and at a great pace!
-AZB
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Post by sigmfsk on May 2, 2012 17:44:51 GMT -5
Months ago, I created this site: www.74monaco.comas a general repository for brochures and information that was hard to record on this site. I call it the "information annex". Rather than commingle my particular build info on that site, today, I created this site: www.dk41u4d.comwith this page www.dk41u4d.com/120502.htmto document the things I was taking the panel beaters, and what I expected them to do with them. I sent them the link, and it seemed like that was an easy way for them to recall what I was thinking about and why I took them "globey". I'll add pages to that site to talk about the different efforts for I.C. So I visited the panel beaters, and it's starting to look like a car! Those wheels and tires are not the new set. That rear axle shot with wong-center-receiver and extra long wheel studs looks quite out of place. And the c-pillar still has the 3 studs to be ground down, but it's a car! That front subframe was just painted to keep it from rusting. All that suspension stuff will be cut off at I.C. I had them make aluminum body biscuits, and it looks like they did a nice job. I asked them how they determined what measurements to use, and they said that they looked at all the pieces from Marin County and 76 parts car, used the best ones, and made some educated guesses. They said it wasn't too difficult to do, as although the rubber deteriorates, the center metal sleeve gives a good indication of the thickness. It seemed to me that the fenderwells may have been a little high, but they said that I could see that this wasn't the case, as the fenders lined up with the doors. And I can also see the same gap on Marin County: I dropped off all the parts, and said I expected it to be a few months before the motor was ready. The plan is to get the motor, then have them mount it and the transmission in the car (just solidly enough for transport purposes), then ship it all to I.C. Today was a good day.
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Post by spanks79 on May 2, 2012 19:08:46 GMT -5
I had them make aluminum body biscuits, and it looks like they did a nice job. I asked them how they determined what measurements to use, and they said that they looked at all the pieces from Marin County and 76 parts car, used the best ones, and made some educated guesses. They said it wasn't too difficult to do, as although the rubber deteriorates, the center metal sleeve gives a good indication of the thickness. Oooooooh, Biscuits. I need some of those! I'd say it was.
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Post by sigmfsk on May 3, 2012 4:12:40 GMT -5
I had them make aluminum body biscuits, and it looks like they did a nice job. I asked them how they determined what measurements to use, and they said that they looked at all the pieces from Marin County and 76 parts car, used the best ones, and made some educated guesses. They said it wasn't too difficult to do, as although the rubber deteriorates, the center metal sleeve gives a good indication of the thickness. Oooooooh, Biscuits. I need some of those! When the front sheet metal is removed from the subframe (so that the subframe can be painted after cutting/welding by I.C.), I'll ask that the measurements be recorded. Then we can compare. At some time, the subframe will need to be painted after I.C. cuts and welds on it. I'm thinking the likely possibility is: - car is shipped to I.C. - I.C. cuts and welds subframe to install steerling/suspension pieces - they paint it enough to keep it from rusting. - I.C. welds subframe to subframe connectors making the unibody and subframe forevermore one solid piece. - they paint it enough to keep it from rusting - send back to panel beaters - they remove motor, trans, front end sheet metal, for prep and painting of those pieces, and also of the subframe At this last step, it will be easy to record the measurements of the loose biscuits, and take measurements of those now a solid part of the car (between the subframe and unibody). I can understand it is of a possibility to make the sameframe have bolt-in subframe connectors so that it's easily removed in the case of accident or whatnot, but I think I'd prefer just welding it all together. If the car is in an accident such that the frame is tweaked, it seems that it will be a lot of work to fix no matter if the subframe was bolted in or welded in. So in the typical situation of not being in an accident, I'd prefer the rigidity of having it welded in. Then again, I.C. may need to remove the subframe in order to cut & weld new transmission mount brackets to it.
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Post by spanks79 on May 3, 2012 7:49:44 GMT -5
It would be interesting to see what measurements they came up with. I am thinking about making my own bushing / biscuits out of Delrin (basically really hard plastic) which seems to be popular with the pro touring crowd. I will be sure to document the process. From my preliminary measurements, it looks like 4 of the 6 bushing assemblies are the same then the remaining pair are the same. So basically only two bushings assemblies need to be designed, the rest are just copies.
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Post by sigmfsk on May 3, 2012 9:53:19 GMT -5
I am thinking about making my own bushing / biscuits out of Delrin (basically really hard plastic) which seems to be popular with the pro touring crowd. For my application (welding / bolting the entire frame / subframe / unibody as one piece), solid aluminum seems best. But for regular Monaco subframe installation, what benefits do you think delrin might offer over aluminum? I see one thread here: www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?t=34502that says things like: > You'll never know the difference between the two, delrin is essentially a > solid mount. It also says: > The NVH comes from a combination of hard control arm bushings and > hard subframe bushings. So maybe for my application I'll want some type of semi-compliant control arm bushings.
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Post by spanks79 on May 3, 2012 11:52:37 GMT -5
But for regular Monaco subframe installation, what benefits do you think delrin might offer over aluminum? I see one thread here: www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?t=34502that says things like: > You'll never know the difference between the two, delrin is essentially a > solid mount. It also says: > The NVH comes from a combination of hard control arm bushings and > hard subframe bushings. That's funny, I came across that same thread during my research. Honestly I think the results will be the same with Delrin vs Aluminum. Delrin is hard stuff, it is not compliant. My motivation to use it is mainly because it will resist corrosion, esp with dissimilar metals of the steel subframe and aluminum biscuit. It comes in black, so it will look stealth. It will be easy to machine, (I am doing the machine work myself). I plan on using rubber control arm bushings, subframe connectors and some sort of torque box reinforcement. Really, I could go either way with the sub frame bushings, Steel, aluminum, or Delrin. I'm not convinced it will make a difference either way. I guess we know that steel or aluminum will not give at all, but there is the possibility the Delrin may give some compliance but we don't know that for sure. I may still change my mind and go with aluminum or I may stick with Delrin just to try something different. Have you given thought to the radiator yolk mounts? Rubber, aluminum or other?
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